Monday 28 November 2016

Tarrant Gunville from Pimperne

So, I'd read about this withered hand ghost in the book Paul got me a couple of birthdays ago. The picture was so big and graphic and it had gone round my head so many times  that I began to imagine if anyone dared turn up in Pimperne village they were bound to see this cut off hand making its armless way down the road.

So I devised one of my circular routes with another ghost story thrown in for good measure, and set off, mentally fortified to meet the limbless spectre. Of course I was bitterly disappointed, not just by the distinct lack of anything spectral other than the fog, but by the general lack of scenery on this walk. I was just getting to the good bit when I had to turn round and come back it seemed.

Don't let this put you off, perhaps the ghost hand only appears on certain days, the 16th of December for instance. The story goes that on that date in 1780 a guy called Blandford was a trumpeter with the Dragoons who engaged with poaching on the side. One night he was stumbled upon by a posse of gamekeepers; during the ensuring fight he lost a hand and was captured. While the hand was buried at Pimperne churchyard, Blandford recovered from his injury, and died in London a few years later. The hand is said to crawl around the graveyard and will not rest until reunited with the rest of Blandford.

Maybe I should have wandered a bit more in the churchyard - and probably come at night!


St Peter's Church and cemetery, Pimperne - ST9009
I walked past Stud Farm Dairy, north-eastwards along a road and then a good track and passed a few dog walkers. I just managed to step into ST9010 for a boring photo.


Ferns Plantation - ST9010
Hurray! I had something other than a field to look forward to in the next gridsquare. Pimperne Longbarrow. I didn't realise it at the time but this is the longest long barrow in Dorset, 106 metres (330 feet) along its axis and 27m (90 feet) wide at its broadest point and it rises to 10 feet high. The barrow can be roughly dated to 3500-4000 BC. 
The long earthen mound was built to cover a communal burial site built of timber and was flanked by a set of parallel side-ditches, though these have now silted up and are very hard to make out. The shape of the barrow is parallel-sided, like a long rectangle, in common with many other Dorset barrows, unlike the tapered barrows you will see elsewhere in the south-west. 

The inner burial chamber has never been fully excavated, so we don't know how many burials took place here or if people were buried with grave goods. We do know that there must have been a sizeable community nearby, as traces of huts have been found, and there are numerous burial mounds in the area. (Information from http://www.britainexpress.com/attractions.htm?attraction=3111



Pimperne Long Barrow - ST9110
I walked along the length of the barrow and then got a bit confused about the direction of the footpaths. It should have been footpathS, plural, but I could only see one footpath and that wasn't the right one. i intended to return on that one, but decided to just take it and hope that the footpath would be more obvious when I  came to join it at the opposite end.

I looked for the earthworks in ST9111, but there were substantial crops in the field and the rest of the earthworks were in the woodland and I just wasn't tempted sufficiently to go in search of them, so hoped there would be something better to photograph on my return route for that gridsquare. (A futile hope as it turned out.)

Never mind, Sprake's buildings would surely be an attractive enough feature for the next gridsquare. I couldn't actually see the, but took a photo of a barn instead.


Barn, North Tarrant Hinton Down - ST9211
As is often the case, there was no external evidence of the site of a Roman building north of my footpath, so I walked past Barton Hill Dairy and then turned right onto a footpath which ran on the south bank of The Tarrant, which seemed rather a grand name for a body of water which I couldn't actually see, but I'm sure flows more fully elsewhere to make it more deserving of the definite article before its name. I wasn't too worried about this gridsquare because the northern part of the village of Tarrant Hinton is contained within ST9311, including the church where I planned to have my tea break.
Tarrant Hinton - ST9311
In fact, this was the most interesting feature of today's walk (potential ghosts aside).



St Mary's Church, Tarrant Hinton - ST9311
The church is interesting in that it was one of the last churches to have an Easter Sepulchre before the Reformation which put an end to their use.It has been dated as 1520 and is a beautiful example of Italian Renaissance architectural style. It contains the initials 'TW' for Thomas Weever (also known as Thomas Troteswell) who was the rector between 1514 and 1536, and therefore rector at the time of its construction. Although it is still damaged, it has received extensive repair works and surveillance.






The Easter Sepulchre, St Mary's Church, Tarrant Hinton - ST9311
The Easter Sepulchre is an arched recess generally in the north wall of the chancel, in which from Good Friday to Easter Day were deposited the crucifix and sacred elements in commemoration of Christ's burial and resurrection. It was generally only a wooden structure, which was placed in a recess or on a tomb. This was largely a Catholic practice, hence its abolition after the Reformation.

There is also a beautiful stained glass window in this church, designed and created to commemorate the millenium.


Millenium stained glass window, St Mary's Church, Tarrant Hinton - ST9311

The window is based on a passage from Scripture Joel 2:21 - 23:

Do not be afraid, land of Judah;
    be glad and rejoice.
Surely the Lord has done great things!
22     Do not be afraid, you wild animals,
    for the pastures in the wilderness are becoming green.
The trees are bearing their fruit;
    the fig tree and the vine yield their riches.
23 Be glad, people of Zion,
    rejoice in the Lord your God,
for he has given you the autumn rains
    because he is faithful.
He sends you abundant showers,
    both autumn and spring rains, as before.
24 The threshing floors will be filled with grain;
    the vats will overflow with new wine and oil.
25 “I will repay you for the years the locusts have eaten-
    the great locust and the young locust,
    the other locusts and the locust swarm -
my great army that I sent among you.
26 You will have plenty to eat, until you are full,
    and you will praise the name of the Lord your God,
    who has worked wonders for you;
never again will my people be shamed.
27 Then you will know that I am in Israel,
    that I am the Lord your God,
    and that there is no other;
never again will my people be shamed.

Funny, as I'm typing this having just watched 'Planet Earth 2' about the deserts and the plague of locusts!

I left the church pondering Easter sepulchres and locusts and continued my walk for a short while along the busy road between Tarrant Hinton and Tarrant Gunville. Thankfully, this was only for a very short section, but long enough to pass an old, redundant petrol pump.

Old petrol pump, Tarrant Hinton - ST9311
I now wandered across Tarrant Hinton Down, which is actually further north than North Tarrant Hinton Down and there really is very little to see. I mused on the meaning of Ninety-nine plantation as I walked past, looked for a second long barrow near Chettle, and then looked for Chettle House.

Footpath across Tarrant Hinton Down - ST9411


Ninety-nine plantation - ST9412

Chettle House was totally covered in scaffolding and some sort of covering which rendered it invisible to the passer-by. The mud was totally visible though as the heavy plants had churned the footpath up during renovation work. A long-haired man on a phone apologised for the mud as I passed by and I wondered if he were the owner. Glad that I didn't have to walk through the field with the cows, I turned right towards Chettle Church and immediately realised I would later have to walk the cow field.

Chettle Church - ST9513
I was disappointed to find Chettle Church locked so quickly retraced mysteps to the cow field, retrieved my pole from its stowed position and bravely marched across the field, which is actually The Park.

The Park, Chettle - ST9413
This turned out to be the most scenic part of the walk, and would have been particularly attractive in summer or early autumn. With most of the trees now having lost their leaves, it looked quite drab, but there was still a little colour to brighten the day, especially when I reached Little Wood, where a gate's signage made me smile.

Sign on gate at Little Wood - ST9412
Chettle Park - ST9412
Little Wood - ST9412
Eastbury Park, the subject of another ghost story in this area sits bang in the middle of ST9312 and I hoped for more than a partially obscured glance at this ghostly place.  From the north-east corner of the square I could only see what looked like a keeper's cottage; I hoped for more when I walked west of the property.

Eastbury Park - ST9312
Once out of Little Woods, I marched through another boring field to find Chettle Long Barrow.

Chettle Barrow - ST9313
I then walked past Solomon's Quarters and was intrigued by a symmetrical row of two dots on the OS map. What could these be? I asked myself. It turns out they really are tumuli -just really symmetriclly placed ones.

Tumuli at Solomon's Quarters - ST9313

Another thing I was wanting to see was Zareba Clump, a circular shaped clump of trees. I'm drawn to anything and any place beginning with the letter 'z' as I feel it is not used enough in our language. There was nothing particular of note about this clump of trees, except for its unusual name.

Zareba Clump - ST9313
It was a straight forward walk now to Tarrant Gunville, where my second ghost story took place. Sadly I didn't get much more than a distant and obscured glimpse of Eastbury House, where these grisly events took place.

Eastbury House was once owned by George Bubb Doddington, the Second Earl Temple. Whilst based in his Italian retreat in 1795, Doddington sent an instruction to his steward, William Doggett, to dismantle the wings of Eastbury House. Doggett thought that his master would not return from Italy and decided to take the opportunity to profit from Eastbury. He had the main house and the South wing dismantled, sold the materials and stole the money. The materials were used in the construction of several other buildings including the rectory at Tarrant Gunville, Ashmore Manor and Bryanstone House. When Doggett learned that his master was returning from Italy unexpectedly and that he had no time to cover his crime, he committed suicide by shooting himself.

After his suicide on 23 June 1786 it is said that a bloodstain was left on the marble floor which could not be cleaned. In his 1975 book "The Vampire's Bedside Companion" Peter Underwood says that doors would start to open by themselves and that an apparition was seen, "Doggett's ghost was seen, his face a mass of blood." He goes on to say "Then, in 1845, during the rebuilding of the church and reorganisation of the churchyard, Doggett's corpse was exhumed. When the coffin was opened the legs of the body were found tied together with yellow ribbon but, more frightening, the body was not in the least bit decomposed; in fact the face had a rosy complexion, although the course of the bullet that had killed him, from the jaw through the head, was clearly visible. Now the secret was out and after the 'vampire' was dealt with in the accepted way, there was no further trouble and there were no more reports of Doggett's bloodstained ghost."
According to "Haunted Houses - Tales of the supernatural with some accounts of hereditary curses and family legends", by Charles G. Harper, 1907. "It is the ghost of Doggett, the fraudulent steward of that Earl Temple, which haunts the road and the long drive up from the park gates to the house. The neighbourhood knows Doggett very well indeed, and can tell you how, emulating the vaster frauds of him who built the place, he robbed his employer and oppressed the tenantry, and at last shot himself. Generally at the stroke of midnight, a coach with headless coachman and headless horses drives out and picks up Doggett, down the road."
"If you see an old-world figure at such a time, stepping into that horrid conveyance, you will recognise him as Doggett by his knee-breeches, tied with yellow silk ribbon. The headless coachman asks (out of his neck ?), "Where to, sir ?" and the ghost says, "Home"; whereupon the horses are whipped up, and they drive back to the house. The shade of Doggett, entering, proceeds to the panelled room where he shot himself a century and a half ago - and shoots himself again !"
"Doggett was buried in the neighbouring church of Tarrant Gunville. That building was demolished and rebuilt in 1845, when the workmen, exhuming his body, found the legs to have been tied together with yellow silk ribbon. The material was as fresh and bright as the day it had been tied, and the body was not decayed. The credulous country folk averred that he was a vampire.”

A grisly tale indeed! I was keen to get to the church and see this vampire! Needless to say, there was neither sight nor sound of Doggert at the church or on the quiet lanes of Tarrant Gunville. The only people I met were two young lads weed-killing the graveyard.
Sign on a cottage, Tarrant Gunville - ST9212

I was glad to sit and eat my late lunch in the church. There is a memorial here to Thomas Wedgwood, who also lived at Eastbury House and who was the third son of the famous 'Wedgwood' potter.

Inside St Mary's Church, Tarrant Gunville - ST9212

Memorial to Thomas Wedgwood, St Mary's Church, Tarrant Gunville - ST9212
I was on the homeward stretch now, and glad of it. A sign for Home Farm's Farm Shop and cafe drew my attention. It said it was closed on Mondays and Tuesdays, but open throughout the year otherwise. Surely this couldn't be true? Surely it wouldn't be open on a cold late November afternoon? Surely it could! Yippee!! More eager to use the cafe's toilet facilities than for a cup of tea and managing to resist the tempting array of cakes on display, I sat down in the warmth and then perused the wide selection of goodies on offer. I chose a bottle of local cider as a present for Paul's son who would be coming for tea that afternoon. I was glad now that this was at the end of my walk, rather than at the beginning as originally planned. At least I didn't have far to carry the extra weight now!

Home Farm Farm Shop - ST9112

Attractive ruin at Home Farm - ST9112
having saved the last gridsquare's photo until my return journey, I wished I'd persevered in looking for the earthworks. There really was nothing to photograph in the square, but photograph it I must - and did!

Hinton Bushes - ST9111

I felt vindicated in my earlier choice of footpath as the footpath shown on the map does not go through the above ploughed field as shown, but follows the edge of the field so was not obvious when I approached it earlier. I had made the right choice.
There was no choice now but to retrace my steps of earlier in the day, a monotonous path before, and certainly not worth repeating, but i'd learned a lot of things en route and bagged a few squares at the same time and found a delicious coffee shop.

Number of miles walked: 11.2
Number of new gridsquares: 14
Number of people I spoke to today: 8
Number of cows I spoke to today: 0
Number of churches: 4 (only 3 open)
Number of old petrol pumps: 1
Number of ghosts seen: 0




Friday 18 November 2016

Stour Valley Way

I decided to travel a bit further east for my walk today as I'd often looked at the Stour Valley Way from Sturminster Newton and wondered what the walking would be like there. I parked at Sturminster Mill (closed for the winter) and walked northwards across the weir towards Sturminster Newton on the east side of the River Stour.

Footbridge over the River Stour at Sturminster Newton mill- ST7813
I followed the River northwards, past the house where Thomas Hardy wrote 'The Return of the native'.

Thomas Hardy's house, Sturminster Newton - ST7814

A reminder of a bygone age came into view shortly after this in the form of a broken viaduct. For just over one hundred years trains wended their way along the Dorset Central Railway across the River Stour here, stopping at Shillingstone, Sturminster Newton and Stalbridge. Opened in 1866, Sturminster Newton station was closed in 1966.

The broken Viaduct at Sturminster Newton - ST7814
Stour Valley Way - ST7814

Not long after this the path bifurcates, the Stour Valley Way continuing westwards and the Hardy Way heading off north. There is always the hope of the whistle of a Kingfisher as it flashes past, but I didn't see any today.

Where the paths divide - ST7815
Teasels and the River Stour - ST7815

I knew I would be in the next gridsquare at the confluence of the Rivers Divelish and Stour. The Divelish joins the River Stour from the south.

Confluence of the River Divelish and River Stour - ST7715
The footpath heads northwards here with little to take the eye from the path before reaching Cutt Mill, where I was disappointed to discover that I wasn't going to see the mill or the weirs, although there is a road and a footpath leading in the opposite direction so  it is possible if one takes a diversion. Focused on my route today, I wasn't tempted enough to take an intentional diversion. Going from past experience there was probably going to be an unintentional diversion (aka 'mistake' or  diverted footpath) further along my route which would stretch out the length of my already long walk enough without adding to the miles for the sake of a mill. I'll probably find out now that it was the most scenic part of my route!

I was keen to see Joyce's Coppice, however, as that is my mum's name.

Joyce's Coppice - ST7716
Running almost parallel to Joyce's Coppice in the north-east is a road named 'Marriage Lane'. Maybe when I come back for Cutt Mill, I can walk along this delightfully named lane. For now, I crossed the B3092 and entered Hinton St Mary, a charming little village which has made a significant entry into English history books.

The mosaic was discovered in a field in 1963 by the local blacksmith John White. He had been building a shed to adjoin his forge. The mosaic is probably one of the oldest surviving depictions of Christ.  Although the rest of the site has not been excavated,  it is generally assumed that the mosaic formed the floor of a room within a Roman Villa. The mosaic's layout apparently resembles a Roman triclinium or dining room. The mosaic covered two rooms, joined by a small decorated threshold. It measures 28.4 by 19.6 feet and is almost complete. It is largely red, yellow and cream in colouring. On stylistic grounds it has been dated to the 4th century and is attributed to the workshop of the Durnovarian school of mosaic art. The mosaic was excavated by the Dorchester Museum and taken to the British Museum, where the central medallion, a portrait bust of Christ, is still on display, the rest being kept in storage. I would very much like to see this now that I have visited the place of its origin.


The village appeared quite sleepy at the time of my visit, as villages often do when I'm walking through them at this time of day - pub closed and everyone  either at work or school. I'm hoping to return in a few weeks anyway for another walk and visit to the pub!

The White Horse at Hinton St Mary - ST7816

Closed at the time of my visit
House in Hinton St Mary - ST7816
After a quick visit to the church where there is quite a lot of information about the mosaic, I managed to do one of those short unintentional diversion I spoke of before finding my way back on the right footpath.

St Peter's Church in Hinton St Mary - ST7816

Information about the Hinton St Mary mosaic in St Peter's Church, Hinton St Mary - ST7816
The site of the Roman villa is to the south of the village, but experience has taught me that there is rarely anything left to see so yet another diversion was avoided as I ambled eastwards past Home Farm and along muddy Ridgeway Lane.

Ridgeway Lane near Home Farm - ST7916
At the end of Ridgeway Lane I encountered a situation that always makes my heart sink - a cropped field (cropped, not in the sense that it has been shortened, but that it is full of crops!) Whilst the map shows the footpath boldly going through the centre of the field, in reality it is often necessary to go right round the field to avoid wandering through the crops. This wouldn't be so bad if, in doing so, you were rewarded by enhanced views, but, let's face it, a field is a field, and often a muddy one that is difficult to walk through so it tends to feel like a bit of a slog. Faced with the field at the eastern side of ST7916, my heart sank. I could see a tractor at the other side of the massive field so made my way cautiously round the edge of the field towards it and its driver. The driver was friendly enough and pointed me in the right direction for the next two fields. Thing was, in walking round the field and not religiouslyf ollowing the footpath, I had missed a gridsquare as the footpath  normally just enters ST7915. There is another footpath in the south-west corner of that gridsquare, but it's always annoying when that happens because otherwise there would be nothing to return to that square for and with over 7000 squares left to do, it feels like a bit of a waste of time . . .

Fields near Hinton St Mary - ST8015
I soldiered on with my negative thoughts trying to tell myself there were lots worse problems in the world, in my life even, than not being able to enter a particular gridsquare when lo and behold one such weightier problem confronted me in the form of cows! Ok, so still not ranking highly on the Richter scale of world problems, but right there and then, it felt like a big problem. After a little thought, I scrambled underneath a barbed wire fence in the field next to the cows and followed the hedge up to the next footpath which ran through the field I was in anyway. Problem solved! But no! There were the cows large as life, at the gate I needed to go through, moo-ing their objection should I even so much as consider going into the next field.

Cows in ST8016 (not enough to warrant a geograph for this square)
I managed to find another entrance into the next field, but that was another square missed, this time by my own stupid fear! Feeling a little defeated I stomped my way through several more fields before reaching Manston where there was a lot more to photograph than stupid cows and annoying fields.

Phone box at Manston - ST8115
I was rather excited about the prospect of catching a glimpse of Manston House and its neighbouring church. I had no illusions that I would be able to visit the church or the mausoleum of which I'd read just before setting off today. I was, however, under the illusion that the road I walked along to reach the church would be quiet. It was far from it. I dived into the verge about eight times in quarter of a mile to make way for passing cars.
I was very pleasantly surprised at the end of the road to discover a gate which said 'to Manston Church' and a small car park even. Wow! I passed the mausoleum in the grounds of Manston House. I had read about how it featured prominently in the history of cremation in Britain:
Thomas Barnabas Hanham  was owner of Manston House  on 12 February 1857, when  the Dorset County Chronicle reports that ‘soon after 4 o’clock, Manston House, the seat of T.B HANHAM Esq., was discovered to be on fire.’ Thankfully no lives were lost but the fire destroyed most of the building and its contents. Hanham, then in his early thirties, started building an even more impressive  new house straight away, seizing the opportunity to establish his status as a Victorian gentleman of means. 
Hanham was a successful man, having joined the Royal Navy as a youngster, and achieving the rank of Lieutenant in 1847 and Commander in 1864. He also became a JP and a Deputy-Lieutenant of Dorset. He outlived three wives. The second of these, Josephine Ida Dodson, died in 1866 while the couple were sailing in the Pacific. Whilst wanting to be laid to rest at Manston, Josephine had also previously made it clear that she did not want to be buried in the churchyard which was regularly flooded by the nearby River Stour. So she was taken home and Hanham had a waterproof vault built next to his private aisle in the church in which she was placed. 
However, when the vault was opened up three years later, on the death of his only child, Maud, he found it flooded to a depth of 19 inches. This distressed both Hanham and his new wife, Edith, so much that she made him promise that he would have her body cremated if he survived her, she promising to do the same for him if he should die first. The major problem was that cremation was not legal in Britain at the time even though it was practised elsewhere in Europe, as well as the USA.
When Edith died in 1876, Hanham, being a JP and a decent citizen, was determined not to break any laws, so he had her body stored in a lead-lined coffin and began to build a mausoleum in the grounds of Manston House. This was completed in 1877, and there his wife lay while he negotiated with the authorities to have cremation legalised. His was not a lone voice; the Cremation Society had been campaigning for this for some time, and the movement had been gathering strength because of the terrible state of many cemeteries, particularly those in large cities. 
Finally on 8 October 1882  Hanham was able to legally consign Edith's body to the fire, and even then he had to have a small crematorium built in the grounds of the house. His mother had died by then, and she followed her daughter-in-law the next day. They were the first legal cremations in Britain.
The crematorium was dismantled and is now a garden storage area; but the mausoleum still stands next to the church.
Manston House mausoleum - ST8115

Manston House mausoleum - ST8115
I was delighted to be able to visit the church (and relieved it was not flooded!)

 Church of St Nicholas, Manston - ST8115
Inside Church of St Nicholas, Manston - ST8115
After a delicious sardine lunch, I pondered the problem of where was the footpath. It appeared to run straight through the grounds of Manston House. Surely that couldn't be right? But I could see no alternative so decided to go for it. bang in the middle of the manicured lawn, a four-by-four drove past me, evidently from Manston house. There was no point in trying to hide or pretend I was doing anything other than strolling through the field. if I was accosted, I was accosted and I could plead my innocence and point to the map on my phone which clearly showed the footpath with the red circle indicating my present location.

There was no need, however. The vehicle clearly had more important matters than errant walkers to attend to and I plodded on, casting a glance back at the impressive house with all its history. A closer examination of my photo from here  revealed the unkempt crematorium.

Manston House and church. The crematorium is to the left below the red-roofed house. - ST8115

Closer view of Manston House crematorium - ST8115
I felt relieved to reach the road again where I crossed the River Stour just before Hammoon.The river forms a sort of ox-bow here so it is easy to see how the church can get flooded (and apparently it still does!)

River Stour with Hambledon Hill in the background - ST8214

River Stour with Hambledon Hill in the background - ST8214
having just dipped into gridsquare ST8214, I now entered ST8114 and the village of Hammoon. The ancient cross at the crossroads remain, at least its relic does.

Ancient cross at Hammoon - ST8114

St Paul's Church, Hammoon - ST8114

Attractively carved gates at St Paul's Church, Hammoon - ST8114

Attractively carved gates at St Paul's Church, Hammoon - ST8114

Lovely Dorset place names - signpost at Hammooon - ST8114
After a final cup of tea and a visit to St Paul's church,  I pressed on, encountering a diversion south of Hammoon on the footpath to Fiddleford. It mattered little. I joined a happy throng of dog walkers along a well-trod path which led to the delightful hamlet of Fiddlford with its mill and manor house which Paul and I have visited before.

Footpath to Fiddleford - ST8113

Bench and signpost - Fiddleford - ST8013

Sluices at weir, Fiddleford Mill - ST8013

Fiddleford Mill - ST8013

Leaving Fiddleford, I crossed the field to Sturminster Newton, following the course of the River Stour and the Stour Valley Way.

Field between Fiddleford and Sturminster Newton - ST7913
Wanting to get an extra square to make up for the one I'd missed, I prolonged my walk ever so slightly by wandering into ST7914 and snapping a photo of another old railway bridge.

Old railway bridge, Sturminster Newton - ST7914
I then completed a rectangular walking trail by visiting the church where I chickened out of entering upon hearing the organ and looking down to see my very  muddy boots. I just couldn't be bothered to take them off and have to put them on again so close to the end of my walk. But that's the second time I've got as far as the church doors and not been able to enter. (The last time was because there was wedding on.)
St Mary's Church, Sturminster Newton - ST7813
In the town, The Stur of the Moment cafe informed me that as well as other political news of the day (Trump's election as President), the breaking news was that green gummy bears are actually strawberry flavoured.

The Stur of the Moment, Sturminster Newton - ST7813
So I found my way back to the mill where some young swans made a dramatic entrance onto the River Stour, a lovely way to conclude my walk.

Young swans at Sturminster Newton Mill on the River Stour - ST7813

Number of new gridsquares - 14
Number of gridsquares I could have got - 15
Number of miles walked - 11.5