A dappled walk at Kingcombe Meadows

Having recorded 19 species of butterflies in one day in August last year at Powerstock Common and Brackett's Coppice, we decided to see if we could match that number this year. I devised a route which started at the Kingcombe Centre, joined the Jubilee Trail west, headed south to Powerstock Common and then back along the disused railway line to Toller Porcorum and north along the Jubilee Trail back to the Kingcombe Centre.

We started on Kingcombe Road and went through the Kingcombe Meadows Reserve.

Kingcombe Road, Jubilee Trail - SY5598

Kingcombe Meadows - SY 5598

It was a glorious day with just the right amount of cloud cover and with dozens of Meadow Browns and Ringlets keeping us company en route.

Ringlet

We continued along the Jubilee Trail past Redholm Coppice, stopping to photograph small skipper butterflies which we later identified as Essex Skippers as they had black ends to their antennae.

Essex Skipper - a new butterfly species for me.

Kingcombe Meadows - Redholm Coppice - SY5498

We avoided a field of cows by turning onto the road. Even better - the road was closed so we had no fear of traffic and could revel in the quietness of this lazy Sunday. It is wonderful to feel nature's embrace and it's one of the reasons I enjoy being outdoors so much. You become aware of nature's breath, its vitality, its very essence and, in the presence of so much life and vitality, you feel yourself becoming more alive, more energised and more observant. It beats sitting indoors enclosed by four walls any day. Of course it helps when the weather is good, the birds are singing, the bees are buzzing and the butterflies are flitting past, but there's also energy in the rain and so I try to be positive whatever the weather because if you're outdoors, there's movement, there's fresh air, there are bouquets of scent; it's all natural; it's all good for you - I'd go as far as to say it's essential for a healthy lifestyle. 

With these thoughts in mind we trotted down the lane towards Powerstock Common and, without the sound or pollution of traffic it was a delightful walk. Sunrays filtered through the trees' canopy, producing a dancing, dappled effect, movement and light which was accompanied by the suthering of the leaves as they whispered to each other. ('Suthering' is a poetic term used by John Clare to describe the noise of the wind through leaves).

Dappledness and suthering near Powerstock Common - SY5498

I loved the ways the trees' canopies interlaced across the road - a feature known as interarboration.

Interarboration

Once through this delightful bower, the roadside verges continued to assail our sense with the heady scent of Meadowsweet, its creamy colour contrasting beautifully with the shocking pink of the Great Willowherb. I paused to breathe it in more deeply and just to make sure I'd noticed it as much as it deserved!

Meadowsweet and Great Willowherb

Meadowsweet

We were soon at the entrance to Powerstock Common and the reason for the road closure became evident. Repairs to a bridge were being undertaken. We wove our way round barriers and fences and entered the nature reserve, eyes and ears alert.

Powerstock Common - the entrance to the reserve - SY5497

We idled our way round the reserve, keen to see anything. The meadows here are so unspoilt it feels like a hallowed place. We must cherish these places. There were few people about to enjoy this rare untainted corner and we revelled in the company of smaller things, remembering that here we were sharing their home.

Green-veined White on Tufted Vetch

Large White on Knapweed

Common Lizard (probably pregnant)

Silver-washed Fritillary - the boldest and most showy of the woodland butterflies

A very 'elbowed' tree - SY5397

Woolly Thistle - this was a new species for me when I first moved down here

We returned to the entrance of the reserve, wound our way back round the various bridgework barriers and climbed to the railway embankment to walk along the disused railway east to Toller Porcorum. It certainly looked like we were the first to do so in a long while and I almost regretted my cropped trousers as we battled our way through nettles and brambles along what used to be a footpath, but certainly was no longer. There was even a stile to enter what used tob e part of the extended nature reserve.

Stile near Powerstock Common, SY5597

We were relieved to finally emerge into more open landscape, where a sign informed us that the path we had just used was no longer a path, and gave directions for correctly accessing Powerstock Common.  Ah!! That explained it.

Disused railway line and footpath near Toller Porcorum - SY5597

There was more dappled sunlight as we approached the village and crossed a footbridge over the River Hooke.

Footbridge over River Hoooke - SY5597

As is my want, we paid a visit to the church. I am always keen to discover unique facts about the churches in Dorset, not about their architecture, but more about their history, who worshipped there, any ghost stories or anecdotes about their history. Here I learnt that the pre-Raphaelite artist, William Holman Hunt had once lived in the village, opposite the church and it is thought he used the door to the church as his inspiration for the door in his famous painting 'The Light of the World'.

Church at Toller Porcorum - SY5697

Toller Porcorum church door - the inspiration for Holman Hunt's 'Light of the World'

We paused to talk to a resident of the village as we turned to leave the village behind. he confirmed what we'd read about the church door and its association with the Pre-Raphaelite brotherhood and went on to tell us how he built horse and cart models out of matchsticks. Much as we would have liked to have taken him up on his offer of a tour of his house, we were spurred on by the thought of yet another cake and tea at the Kingcombe Centre.

I paused for another photo as we crossed the River Hooke again.

River Hooke from bridge at Toller Porcorum - SY5698

We rejoined the Jubilee Trail and wandered through fields all the way back to our starting point where we were disappointed to discover that the cafe didn't take payment by cards so our cup of tea turned  out to be an unrealised dream.

Jubilee Trail between Toller Porcorum and Lower Kingcombe - SY5598

No. of species of butterflies seen; 11

No. of famous doors seen: 1

No. of lizards seen: 3

No. of miles walked: 6.5

No. of new gridsquares: 6

A Butterfly Scramble through Evershot

When we signed up to take part in the annual butterfly scramble we knew we would be allocated a 5 x 5 km square anywhere in Dorset, but, given that we know the organiser, we knew we'd get one pretty close to home. I didn't know we'd get one with lots of blank squares for me to fill in - but that's what happened!

We started at Evershot and immediately ran into trouble because we thought we'd take a short cut in preference to walking along the road. We headed towards the Sewage Works, but were supposed to turn right just before reaching it, but there was no obvious path. We strode off regardless and fought our way through bramble and nettles before finally accepting there was no path and retracing our steps to the road, past the school and onto the MacMillan Way, heading south.

MacMillan Way south of Evershot - ST5703

Counting butterflies as we went, we entered the next square and walked past Fortunes Wood Farm. I remembered having walked through the same farmyard the previous year, and having to wade through cow muck. Today it was very different conditions, very dry and pleasant.

Fortunes Wood Farm - ST5803

Approaching the old Police Training Centre at Chantmarle, The Centre was closed in 1995. Paul reminded me of a ghost story he'd heard about the place, from a policeman who trained there. He can't remember the details, but I've since found out another ghost story relating to the place:

For several years at the beginning of the 18th century a ghost had been reportedly heard in the Great Hall to repeat  three times 'Search for Wat Perkins!'  This occurred on the same night each year.  Then two workmen clearing a ditch found a headless skeleton. Following an investigation a widow living at nearby 'Kit Whistle' cottage confessed to the murder of a Scottish peddler some 22 years before.  She had buried his head under the cottages hearth stone and disposed of the body in the ditch. It is said that after her arrest the ghost was never heard from again.
(Source: http://www.thedorsetpage.com/locations/place/C104.htm)

A meadow was brimming with Meadow Browns and Gatekeepers as we walked through. Now undisturbed, it was once used as a football field, presumably for the trainee police officers.

Football field, now disused, at Chantmarle Police Trainig Centre - ST5802

Chantmarle Police Training Centre, closed in 1995 - ST5802

There is a lovely old bridge here if you take the road eastwards to Frome St Quintin, but we weren't heading that way today. We were heading south to North Holway Farm, counting butterflies. We stopped and ate our lunch just before North Holway Farm, amidst a cloud of white butterflies.

North Holway Farm - ST5803

Upon reaching Holway Lane, we took a  short diversion in order to enter another square, not to tick off another gridsquare for my blog this time, but to count butterflies. So we entered ST5701 and headed northwards, but only for a bit. After counting a dozen or so Red Admirals, we began to get a bit anxious about the time. We had been invited for a cream tea later that afternoon and that was something we didn't want to miss. So we checked out a couple of barns for potential bat roosting sites and retraced our steps.

Barn at West Holway - ST5701

We briefly entered ST5800 south of Holway Farm and made our way north through Holway Farmyard before heading east and crossing the railway line. Somewhere in this gridsquare we saw a dazzling Beautiful Demoiselle. We also paused after another little detour (owing to a seldom used stile being overgrown with a thicket) and our detour paid off as we watched the only two Silver-washed Fritillaries of our walk dance along the hedge.

Beautiful Demoiselle

After crossing the railway line (there's simply a sign exhorting you to 'Stop, Look and Listen'), we were heading gradually uphill, along the road a bit and turning eastwards again just before Higher Chalmington Farm.

Higher Chalmington Farm - ST5901

We were getting hot and anxious now. It was taking us much longer than usual to walk as we kept having to stop and make notes about the butterflies we were seeing. I suggested we didn't count for the next two squares so we could march purposefully on. Of course we ended up seeing more butterflies then, but our resolve was strong and the promise of the cream tea spurred us onwards.

Looking towards Old Wood - ST6001

We turned back on ourselves in ST6001 and headed back towards Evershot, through Frome St Quintin, a delightfully sleepy village with accommodating landowners and a wonky telephone box.

'You may use path 50 yards on right (Not so muddy) - Sign at Frome St Quintin - ST5902

A slightly wonky telephone box in Frome St Quintin - ST5902

We walked along the road north out of the village, past Dawes Barton Farm and took note of a handy bench for another time at our crossroads. We turned off onto a grass track and headed north-eastwards towards Evershot.

Ash Tree on path north of Frome St Quintin - ST5903

I was looking out for Ladymeade Cottage, expecting a cute little thatched cottage, but it is now a ruin and another possible roosting site for bats.

Ladymeade Cottage, near Holywell - ST5903

We crossed the railway line again at Holywell - this time there was a raised platform to facilitate the crossing.

Railway line at Holywell - ST5903

We briefly re-visited ST5803, passing Burl Farm,  and now I was recording the butterflies on an app on my phone which was much easier and quicker - but meant more work at home.

Burl Farm - ST5803

We were nearing our destination now, and looked for a different path. We didn't want to take the same path which had led to our getting lost at the beginning of the walk. But there didn't appear to be any other path, so we followed the one we were on and it led successfully back to the Common and to our car - and the Cream Tea was worth waiting for!

Field between Holywell and Evershott - ST5804

Species of butterfly seen:  11

No of times a footpath on the map didn't exist: 2

No. of ghosts seen: 0

No. of times we crossed a railway line: 2

No. of new gridsquares visited: 10

No. of miles walked: 9

Wynford Eagle again

In February I wrote a post called 'Three Chruches' in which I visited, or attempted to visit Toller Fratrum, Wynford Eagle and West Compton churches. Two of the churches were locked and I vowed to return. I still haven't returned to West Compton, although I aim to do so very soon, but I contrived a walk in order to revisit Wynford Eagle where I knew it was possible to obtain the key. And if I couldn't, there was a trigpoint en route any way - or so I thought.

My walk today started at Lambert's Plantation, near Frampton at a 'Walkers' Car Park' and headed south-west to Longlands Farm where two grunting pigs greeted me. At least I thought they were greeting me, but it turned out, they were rushing to be fed! I checked with their owner about the direction of the footpath and she warned me that it was still a bit muddy - 'ridiculous in July', but that I looked adequately shod.

SY6194 - the muddy track near Longlands Farm

The path is quite obvious and easy until it suddenly enters a field 

SY6094 - field west of Longlands Farm, where the path becomes a bit vague.

and becomes a bit more vague and then even more so when I realised I wasn't following the footpath. The views across Compton Bottom and to Compton Valence were attractive though.

View from path across to Compton Bottom

Compton Valence from the north

I also saw Marbled White butterfly during my brief detour.

Marbled White

There are no signs here to indicate where the footpath is and I found it difficult to know which side of the hedge I should be on, both sides were quite overgrown. I plumped for one side and kept walking until I finally saw a sign indicating the direction of the Monarch's Way and kept going straight on, past a barn, to Greenford Lane and, hopefully, my trigpoint.

SY5994 - barn near Greenford Lane, north of Compton Valence.

Once on Greenford Lane I got excited about my trigpoint, which looked as if it was on the road. After close scrutiny, however, I decided it must be on the other side of the hedge and, upon inspection of how to access same, I decided against it; it was just too overgrown and the way barred by some rusty machinery. I would try again in winter when the vegetation was not as high. I would have to be satisfied with a boring photo of the road instead.

SY5894 - Greenford Lane - where the trigpoint should have been.

I didn't enjoy walking along this road, which was surprisingly busy. But I did enjoy seeing  the Red Kite which entertained me for a few minutes. My first Dorset Red Kite! I attempted photos with my new Canon Powershot SX50 - not quite as good results as my brother's (for some reason), but not bad either.

Red Kite being mobbed by Rooks

Red Kite

Anxious to get off the road and away from passing tractors, I looked for the footpath west, but it had disappeared. I decided to walk further north and join the Wynford Eagle footpath at Greenford Farm. Phew, I was glad to be off the road and into a field of wheat! At least the path had been clearly cut through the crops.

SY5895 - wheat field near Greenford Farm

I walked north and slightly west towards Wynford Eagle, arriving at Manor Farm, where I enquired about the key for the church and was pointed in the direction of Lord Winford's house.

Crossroads at Wynford Eagle - SY5895

A car was parked outside the manor house and a couple were getting out. "Excuse me," I enquired of the gentleman, "are you Lord Winford?" He laughed and shook his head and explained that he and his wife had holidayed in the thatched cottage by the church some 30 years ago and were having a trip down memory lane. "But if you're going to ask for the key for the church, we'd like to join you," he added, once I told him of my mission. They said their family had some connection with the Winford's (they did explain exactly what connection, but I quickly lose the thread with these stories). The rubber-gloved cleaner answered the door (or rather she came to the open door when I tapped) and went in search of Lord Winford's key. With the key in hand and strict instructions about not switching on any lights, we went to investigate the church. There is not a lot to see if I'm honest, but I liked meeting this reminiscing couple who offered to take the key back to avoid my having to go back on myself.

Inside Wynford Eagle Church

Inside Wynford Eagle church

I sat on the footbridge over the burn south of the church and ate my lunch before retracing February's steps and heading up to the Jubilee Trail. I had already photographed these gridsquares, but it was interesting revisiting two seasons later; the scene was completely different.

Once again I got a little muddled up near Compton Barn as it is not obvious which way the path goes. I walked past the old settlement here (there is not a lot to see) and found my way to Compton Barn (the name of a place or just a barn?) There is a building here which is partly derelict and partly a house.

SY5893 - Compton Barn

I walked down Church Hill Lane (quite steep) into Compton Valence, which hardly warrants the name of village, and went into the church. "I wonder if there are bats here," I thought to myself, looking up at the beamed roof of the porch as I sat with my second lunch (barely more than a lettuce leaf). After a quick look round inside, I wandered out again and took a photo of the church from the gate - as I did so a bat flew high and round the church! Honestly. I went in its pursuit, but did not find it again. It was probably a Pipistrelle and I almost certainly would not have noticed it if it were not for Paul's recent passion for bats.

Compton Valence church - SY5993

Memorial to Eptimus Hobbs in Compton Valence church - I just liked the name

Inside Compton Valence church

I met a jogger and three dogs as I walked north, before heading east across Compton Bottom, which was crowded with a lot of shorn sheep.

SY6093 - Compton Bottom

Once out of the field I was back onto Longlands Farm track, only it was a different track - it looked long as it stretched uphill to the farm - and it was a very hot and sultry day.

SY6193 - Track to Longlands Farm

I passed the time of day with the farmer and we commented on the heat - unexpected after a rather unseasonable spell. Then I plodded on back to the car. A good walk with two excellent objects for my new camera's first photos - Red Kite and Marbled White.

Miles walked - 9

Churches visited - 2

Trigpoints missed - 1

People I spoke to - 5 (probably a record on a solitary walk!)

Gridsquares - 8

Lunches consumed - 2