The Miz Maze at Leigh

Another short walk was the order of the day, giving Paul's back a chance to recover. We had heard tell of the Miz Maze at Leigh, the haunt of witches so it is said and not too far from home, so we set off in that direction, parking in the village of Leigh.

Footpath from Leigh - ST6108

Passing bravely by a herd of cows, we were soon in the same field as the Miz Maze. No-one seems to know for sure what the Miz Maze was used for. It is a turf-cut maze forming a hexagonal shape and is thought to have been used by Romans as a form of penance or used for seasonal or religious celebrations such as May day or Whitsuntide. Others think it could be the site of a witches' coven. Whatever it is or was, it is not much in evidence today.

Leigh Miz Maze - ST6108

Leigh Miz Maze - ST6108

It is difficult to know which gridsquare the maze actually falls within. I've gone for ST6108, but it could just as easily be ST6208, depending on which side of the maze you are standing on or in.

This means I've missed a square. I didn't take a photo within ST6208 so will need to return.

My next photographed square was ST6207 where I took a photo of the delightful thatched Rookery Farm.

Rookery Farm - ST6207

Although not quite donning their autumnal colours, the trees were just beginning to turn on the distant hillsides.

ST6207 - autumn colours near Rookery Farm

We made our way to Keeper's Cottage where the footpath has been diverted.

Keeper's Cottage - ST6107

In the next square we struggled to find the footpath as the gate was padlocked. Upon checking later on the updated maps, we learned that the footpath did still run through that field. It is most annoying when landowners make it difficult for walkers. It only results in frustration and anger and a lot of trampling about on their land which could be avoided if signage were clearer.

We eventually found our way to Calfhay Farm, where once again it was not clear where the footpath was. We enquired of the owner who came out to see us after his dog started barking.

Calfhay Farm - ST6106

We crossed the Wriggle River by way of a shaded footbridge.

Bridge over the Wriggle River - ST6106

Dorset has so many delightful place names, of which the Wriggle River is just one example. It's such an apt name for a river, evoking images of an unruly, belligerent river which refuses to be tamed as it wends it way from source to mouth.

Another intriguing and delightful name is Hell Corner and there is even a house thatbears that name proudly, The House at Hell Corner, no less.

The House at Hell Corner - ST6006

The House at Hell Corner - ST6006

Hell Corner - ST6006

 As we approached the railway line, the delightful village of Melbury Bubb came into view. It is perhaps my favourite Dorset village, and one I have photographed many times.

Melbury Bubb

We ate our lunch in the shade of the church porch and then proceeded across the fields and Dixon's bridge towards Chetnole where the same herd of cows which had thwarted our path the last time we did this walk were in the same field. We tiptoed across the field towards its non-cow-guarded exit and emerged onto the road at Chetnole. I had photographed these squares on our previous walk, but we had not visited the church, which we did now.

St Peter's Church, Chetnole - ST6008

The only remaining 13th century window, St Peter's Church, Chetnole - ST6008

Sign in St Peter's Church, Chetnole - ST6008

Having enjoyed a brief coffee break here, we enquired of the pub as to whether a group of walkers could lunch there at some future date. The answer was in the affirmative. Paul pointed out an interesting photograph.

Picture in The Chetnole Inn - the Napoli was shipwrecked on Branscombe beach in January 2007 and its booty salvaged by beachcombers. Some of the booty was alcohol, including some Cider Brandy which was contained in oak barrels which were protected by Bibles and then  bottled upon their salvage. An interesting story.

Wishing to prolong our walk a little, we headed northwards to church lane which was dappled with autumnal sunlight.

Church Lane, Leigh - ST6109

The footpath unfortunatley came to an abrupt end where  it had no longer been cleared of overgrowing vegetation -  a shame as it was a lovely footpath and reminiscent of a time when folk from far and wide many the journey on unmotorised transport to church.

We retraced our steps and found the diverted footpath to the church.

St Andrew's Church - Leigh - ST6108

We picked conkers in the churchyard, marvelling at their shiny surface and wooded imprint. This is a living churchyard and visitors are invited to record their natural history sightings in a notebook in the porch. I was saddened to see we were only the second people to do so and vowed to return to write some more. We were glad, though, to be able to record two species of butterflies - Small Tortoiseshell and Small Copper, it was only our second sighting for the year of the Small Copper.

Small Tortoiseshell at St Andrew's Churchyard, Leigh

Face carving - St Andrew's Church, Leigh - ST6108

Window, St Andrew's Church, Leigh - ST6108

We were now back at the car after an interesting and varied walk.

Number of gridsquares: 7

Number of churches visited: 3

Number of padlocked gates: 1

Number of miles walked: 8

Gillingham - the far north

On a recent trip to London (£16 day return with South-West Trains promotional summer offer), we had stopped at Gillingham and I had remarked to Paul that I could come here by train and do a walk. The advantage of such an otherwise ridiculous idea was obvious - it solved the parking problem that besets the country walker.

Accordingly, one almost sunny Thursday, I sallied forth to Yeovil Junction station, undaunted by Paul's years of experience of south-west living and mapply observations, "Are you sure you won't just be walking through fields? I haven't heard of anyone walking at Gillingham." I assured him I'd done my research and it would be lovely. My research consisted of looking at the map and noting that Gillingham lay within the Dorset county and was therefore worthy of a visit.

ST8026 - Gillingham train station

With my route in hand and a laden rucksack I stepped onto the platform and immediately found my way into Gillingham's  outlying streets, along with an anxious looking gentleman who was pacing the pavement in the hope of meeting someone, anyone to enquire of the location of Springfield Avenue (I think that was the name). He chose to ask me - obviously a mistake - I told him I'd no idea and that I too was looking for my correct path - in life, career, place of abode, and more to the point, in Gillingham.  I don't know if he found his street, but I eventually found my path (my Gillingham one if not all the others). Hmmmm, so far Gillingham had not left a positive impression on me, but maybe it improved upon leaving the town.

I wound my way uncertainly through fields, wondering when I might be inspired to take my first photo and then giving up and taking one anyway.

ST8125 - an uninspiring field

I crossed a minor road and entered an area of fields dotted with small ponds.

ST8124 - pond near Cole Street Farm

I began an earnest search for somewhere to pee and somewhere to drink my cup of tea - in that order. A pile of logs sufficed just by my field's exit into what I hoped would be more inspiring terrain, but feared more of the same would ensue.

I had made an error in my plotting. yes, a genuine, can-only-blame-it-on-myself error. There was no footpath between the road end at Cowslip Farm (lovely name) and the next lumpy footpath to East Stour Common. Never mind, there was a path through a field, I would use that - or so I thought until I spied the herd of cattle scratching themselves against the very fence I needed to hurdle. I'll never know if that was a footpath or not, because I chose instead to stride westwards towards High Grove Farm where I gazed hopelessly at the map and then the field I thought I should be in but couldn't see how to get in it without further trespass. My anxious ruminations were  allayed when the farmer or his wife pulled out of their drive and stopped when she saw my consternation. She was very helpful and after ascertaining my direction of perambulation, assured me it was OK to go in that field and that the electric fence was not switched on. "I'm a rambler myself," she added, "So I know how difficult it can be at times to find these paths." Phew! I was not being a total idiot.

I entered said non-electric-fenced field boldly and made my way to East Stour Common, passing two highlights en route. Or, to be more accurate, being passed multiple times when one highlight - the hawking Common Hawker. Electric blue, it taunted me with its hithering and thithering, defying capture on film until at last it alighted on a bramble just long enough for my lens to focus on its captivating eyes.

Common Hawker, male

Common Hawker - eye detail

A bicycle made an attractive sign for Gable Cottage B and B at East Stour Common and the Kings Arms would probably have been a good place for me to call it a day.

Gable Cottage B and B - ST8123

The Kings' Arms, East Stour Common - ST8123

I didn't call it a day, however, but strode purposefully on past Fry's Farm, taking the first left turn thereafter towards Duncliffe Wood. I knew this was going to be worth a visit because there was a bird icon on the map here which surely heralded good things.

Fry's Farm - ST8122

At last I was encountering other people, and walkers nonetheless. I realised this was going to be a hill, but hadn't appreciated how steep it was going to be. I stopped halfway up to talk to a dog walker who walks here regularly and we exchanged thoughts on the recently posted warnings against deer poaching. My fellow walker assured me it was worth the climb to the top, "although, " she added, "the trees have grown a lot over the years." I took it she meant the view was partially obscured - and she was correct. I could just about make out the surrounding landscape from the top where I bagged a new Dorset trigpoint and found a seat upon which to sit with my lunch.

Duncliffe Hill and Wood - ST8222

Duncliffe Hill trigpoint - ST8222

Descending the hill meant briefly entering Explorer Map No. 118 - Shaftesbury and Cranborne Chase. There were some lovely views eastwards once I'd exited the wood, towards Green's Farm and south towards Jolliffe's Farm.

Green's Farm - ST8322

Jolliffe's Farm from ST8322

I re-entered the woodland, the property of the Woodland Trust and perused the information board which listed all the things you could see here.

Information board, eastern entrance to Duncliffe Wood - ST8322

The walk thereafter was contained within squares I'd already walked through and I encountered nothing remarkable on route, with the exception of a delightful interruption in monotony in the form of a phone call from my son.

Within hearing distance of the busy A30 I walked fearfully in its direction, pausing to take a requisite photo for gridsquare ST8022 - a new building which seemed to form part of Manor Farm.

New build, Manor Farm - ST8022

I was nearly knocked off my feet upon emerging at the B3092. It baffles me how footpaths can suddenly emerge onto a busy road with no roof whatsoever for feet to manoeuvre out of traffic's way. There was no verge, let alone a pavement. I've no idea what the speed limit was, but guessed it should be 30 as it is not far from the village of East Stour.

It was East Stour I was rushing towards now. I managed a few steps each time before hurtling myself into the undergrowth to avoid collision with the oncoming traffic. Fortunately I did not have to risk my life for too long before reaching the crossroads, where I headed left towards the church.

Christ Church, East Stour - ST7922

Stained glass window in Christ Church, East Stour

My death-defying sprint on the B3092 had been a rehearsal for the real thing - a stroll along the A30, there being no pedestrian right of way, directly or indirectly in the direction of my intended travel. i do not recommend this unless you want to photograph two things - a milepost or The Udder Farm Shop. I was surprised to see the latter as I have stopped here for refreshment on one occasion and it was tempting to do so again, but I wanted to get this nightmare over with as quickly as I could, so continued resolutely onwards.

Milepost on A30 - ST8022

The Udder Farm Shop (great name, but of course which can be photographed with a lot less risk by parking in the shops' car park) - ST8022

I would not have had to pass this farm shop if the footpath I had planned to take was still extant.  This would have halved my risky walk. Breathing the biggest sigh of relief I've ever breathed on a walk (I think), I sprinted across the road and joined a farm track to Hartgill Farm, only to meet a huge pick up truck coming the other way. Arrggh! Was this walk destined for noise, pollution, blood-curdling fear and heart attack dodging events? As I wandered along a seldom-used footpath, I turned to take a photograph of a much more attractive view of the village I'd just left.

East Stour - ST8023

But I was back onto a main road again, or at least the B3092. Without prolonging the walk extensively there was just no avoiding it. I passed the telephone mast at Hunger Hill and collapsed into a field. With the delights of Gillingham spread tantalisingly before me, I picked myself up and wandered happily through mown fields northwards to Madjeston.

Approaching Gillingham - ST8024

I was looking forward to seeing the meandering River Stour and ambling beside its luscious banks. I wondered what the bridge would be like at Madjeston Farm.

Madjeston Bridge - ST8025

I needn't have held my breath.

Lying in all its ploughed glory before me now lay the biggest field I think I've ever seen. i was torn between my overwhelming desire to end the walk by striding defiantly across the field directly towards the station and my sense of obligation to follow the path. My Jiminy Cricket conscience prevailed - after all, I'd be following the river, perhaps I'd see the flash of a Kingfisher streaking by. As it happened I did see a flash of something streaking by, but it wasn't a Kingfisher. Intrigued by some rapid, partially obscured movement in a garden adjacent to the field, and in full view of said field and footpath (which is relevant), I approached to see the origin of these movements. The bark of a dog, some rapid re-dressing and strategic re-positioning of shed garments revealed a couple whom I had obviously interrupted in a little afternoon relaxation. "Don't let me stop you," I hailed as I strode purposefully on, religiously following that footpath. "Lovely location for it," I added with just a trace of sarcasm as I set my feet towards Brickfields Business Park and my journey's end.

There's no accounting for folk - a Gillingham love nest - ST8025

Number of gridsquares: 12
Number of interrupted intimacies; 1
Number of miles: 10.8
Number of churches: 1
Number of trigpoints: 1

Three Counties - From Forde Abbey

Looking at my gradually pinkening Ordnance Survey map, I scanned for big gaps. Where could we go that would cover several as yet unvisited squares? There are large pockets of virgin territory as far as I'm concerned in the county so I had quite a few to choose from. I opted for the furthest west once i realised we could set foot in three counties in one day and that would be quite a feat!

Our starting point was Forde Abbey, pre-opening time, where a concerned resident informed us we were heading in the wrong direction. He seemed quite non-plussed when we told him we weren't visiting the house - yet - but would do so upon our return. Fingers crossed behind our backs, we ventured forth, crossing the Forde Bridge and therefore setting foot in Somerset.

Forde Bridge - ST3605 - spanning the River Axe and forming the border between Somerset and Dorset.

We joined the footpath, still on the Somerset side of the river (ie the north) and walked along the river banks.

River Axe at Forde Abbey - ST3505 - the Somerset side (so it doesn't really count in my gridsquare quest)

 River Axe at Forde Abbey - ST3505 - the Somerset side (so it doesn't really count in my gridsquare quest)

Walking past a docile herd of cows, already shading themselves from the early morning sun, we crossed the footbridge into Dorset and I looked in vain for the big 'Welcome to Dorset' sign. I mean how are people supposed to know they've crossed the border when they don't put signs up? I recognise that it would be an impossible feat to place such signs everywhere and OK, perhaps it doesn't take a lot of intelligence to work out that the River Axe forms the border and therefore if you're on the north side of the river, you're in Somerset; if you're on the south side, you're in Dorset, but still I felt a distinct sense of anticlimax upon making such a momentous crossing.

ST3505 - Footbridge into Dorset (only worth a small photo)

At first our new adventure in Dorset was marked by spacious fields, gentle, rolling hills and dappled woodland avenues. This lasted for about two minutes before we emerged at Westmills Plantation, which, admit it, sounds like it should be a beautiful wooded, tranquil area. Think again! Erstwhile woodland has been ripped out and replaced by a moonscape of a quarry - thankfully no-one was working on the Bank Holiday, so the lone digger stood with a drooping face, almost shamefully and in disgrace in the corner. Even I began to feel sorry for it.

ST3504 - there was a digger, honest! Westmills Plantation (Quarry)

Soon we were crossing quite a substantial road and making our way to Forde Abbey Farm.

Obscured by nature's home - the bit you can't ready says 'Farm'

We got a little lost at the farm, due to poor signage. As usual, a dog alerted someone to our plight and a friendly farmer came out to point us in the right direction.

ST3504 - horses at Forde Abbey Farm

We were back into beautiful Dorset countryside and walking along a veritable road path.

ST3503 - road path south from Forde Abbey Farm

Before reaching Hewood, we passed a delightful cottage with its own footbridge and proud, very shapely Oak Tree.

ST3503 - footbridge near Hewood

Shapely Oak Tree near Hewood - ST3503

Hewood is a sleepy hamlet, although we passed an old man so absorbed in violently hitting his apple tree that he did not notice our soundless passing by. I resisted the temptation to gather a few of his 'windfalls'.

The beautiful hamlet of Hewood - ST3503

A Hollyhock at Hewood - ST3503

The beautiful hamlet of Hewood - ST3503

A small hamlet and a hopeful bin - ST3503

Swallows in Hewood - ST3503

At Pince's Knap there is one of Dorset's several 'red posts', although this one only points in one direction - to Hewood, so I'm not sure it counts as one of those which has given rise to much discussion as to their meaning (ancient gibbet/burial site, sign for illiterate travellers . . .) My extensive (one minute) research, has not answered my question as to the derivation of the name Pince's Knap either.

Red post at Hewood - ST3502

We continued on our route south, crossing another minor road and passing Ashgrove before reaching Tuckmill Farm, close to the Dorset/Devon border.

Ashgrove - ST3502

Tuckmill Farm - ST3501

My levels of excitement were high once more, although tempered by our previous Somerset/Dorset  border disappointment. Would there be a sign saying 'Welcome to Devon'? Perhaps they only put such signs on main roads and this looked as much of a backwater place as it was possible to get. Our first plan, to walk boldly across the border along the Monarch's Way was thwarted by the ubiquitous guard-like presence of cows in the necessary field. We abandoned that plan and decided on a cowardly walk along the road to the border instead.

Farm signs near Dorset/Devon border

We approached the T-junction with anticipation and then, there it was - the border - the Blackwater River, an eastern tributary of the River Axe. I wonder if the word 'river' precedes its title if it's a big river and follows it if it's a tiny river. That seemed to be the case with the Blackwater River in any case. It was little more than a trickle despite its important boundary function. There was no sign again (what a disappointment!) Naturally we ventured forth into Devon by all of about 100 yards, sufficient to take a photo of a Devon county footpath sign.

The Dorset/Devon boundary - bridge over the Blackwater River - ST3500

Devon County Council footpath sign - ST3500

This done, we sat on the border with our picnic lunch, Paul in Dorset and me in Devon with a foot between us, watching Speckled Wood butterflies flit effortlessly and obliviously across the border, soaking up sunshine and shade alike, for this hardy species has thrived in recent years. Unlike many other species, it likes shade as well as sunlight. In fact its name derives, not from its spotted wings, but the fact it likes 'speckled' woodland - dappled by sunlight, rather than full unobscured sunlight.

Speckled Wood butterfly- it likes shade as well as sunlight

Our gratuitous descent into Devon over, we made our way north via the minor road known as Easthay Lane. Rosebay Willowherb adorned the verges and I pondered again on a suitable word for the 'snowflakes' of seed that they release at this time of year.

Rosebay Willowherb seeding

Easthay Lane - not much to say about it really - ST3601

Our turning eastwards came at Elmore Farm, and with it the formal recognition that we were once more in Dorset.

Dorset footpath sign - ST3601

Elmore Farm  is possibly the most untidy and disgraceful site I've encountered in Dorset. With a huge pile of scrap metal along the footpath I guessed that this was a temporary eyesore and would soon be resolved; we certainly hoped so.

We were glad to leave Elmore Farm behind us and walk once more along pleasant lanes in this sleepy countryside. We were woken from our reverie by the sights, sounds and scents of, could it be, a brewery?! At least Paul was, and at least by sight, if not scent or sound, for they were not brewing on Bank Holiday Monday. Two men were picnicing at the tables outside the Gyle 59 brewery and, upon enquiry, invited us into the shop, hastily brushing aside a bit of clutter to make way for their unexpected visitors.

Gyle 59 brewery - ST3701

Founder of Gyle 59 Brewery, Jon Hosking in the brewery shop

Paul's eyes lit up at the sight of the attractively bottled beer and, as Jon gave us a shelf 'tour' of the beers, I wondered if he might find his back sufficiently healed to carry a few bottles home in his empty rucksack. Sure enough, a miracle cure had been found; we purchased a few bottles of the liquid medication as Jon explained that, despite being based in Dorset, the beer was mostly exported to other parts of the UK because of pubs being tied to certain other breweries. There is a bar in a pub in Lyme Regis where you can apparently purchase this beer, which I am assured is delicious.

Our rest stop over, we continued northwards along a dappled road, passing Sadborow House - the residence of the landowner - and its llamas.

ST3702 - dappled road by Sadborow

ST3702 - Llamas at Sadborow House

At Sadborow Pound we passed a curious house in the woods.

ST3702 - Sadborow Pound

Curious house in the woods at Sadborow Pound - ST3702

Thrown by the presence of more people outside enjoying fresh air and sandwiches we took a wrong turning as we approached Thorncombe. Anxious to avoid the Monarch's Way, we wended our way several times round a field, under a barbed wire fence, through dense woodland and  nearly down a deep gully before admitting defeat, swallowing our pride and returning to Sadborow Pound. Thankfully the picnicing cyclists had gone so we had no known witnesses to our error as we found the footpath and walked through pleasant woodland on the other side of the deep gully to Thorncombe.

ST3703 - St Mary's Church, Thorncombe

After exploring the church a little, we took the footpath north-west out of the village, through delightful woodland which we exited near Forde Grange Farm.

Woodland north-west of Thorncombe - ST3703

My only chance to get ST3603 - leaving Thorncombe woodland

Near Forde Grange Farm - ST3604

I was disappointed the footpath did not run closer to Forde Grange Farm as its name is written in Old English font on the OS map, indicating its antiquity and therefore its being a place of interest. Still, on  what had been an incredibly sunny day, it was appropriate to see a couple of  sentinel Sunflowers having self-seeded in a field near our destination.

Sunflowers near Forde Abbey - ST3605

Sunflowers near Forde Abbey - ST3605

Detail of Sunflower head 

Number of sunflowers seen: 2
Number of breweries visited: 1
Number of counties set foot in : 3
Number of passport stamps: 0
Number of miles walked: 10.1
Number of new gridsquares: 12