Sunday 25 September 2016

Gillingham - the far north

On a recent trip to London (£16 day return with South-West Trains promotional summer offer), we had stopped at Gillingham and I had remarked to Paul that I could come here by train and do a walk. The advantage of such an otherwise ridiculous idea was obvious - it solved the parking problem that besets the country walker.

Accordingly, one almost sunny Thursday, I sallied forth to Yeovil Junction station, undaunted by Paul's years of experience of south-west living and mapply observations, "Are you sure you won't just be walking through fields? I haven't heard of anyone walking at Gillingham." I assured him I'd done my research and it would be lovely. My research consisted of looking at the map and noting that Gillingham lay within the Dorset county and was therefore worthy of a visit.


ST8026 - Gillingham train station
With my route in hand and a laden rucksack I stepped onto the platform and immediately found my way into Gillingham's  outlying streets, along with an anxious looking gentleman who was pacing the pavement in the hope of meeting someone, anyone to enquire of the location of Springfield Avenue (I think that was the name). He chose to ask me - obviously a mistake - I told him I'd no idea and that I too was looking for my correct path - in life, career, place of abode, and more to the point, in Gillingham.  I don't know if he found his street, but I eventually found my path (my Gillingham one if not all the others). Hmmmm, so far Gillingham had not left a positive impression on me, but maybe it improved upon leaving the town.

I wound my way uncertainly through fields, wondering when I might be inspired to take my first photo and then giving up and taking one anyway.

ST8125 - an uninspiring field
I crossed a minor road and entered an area of fields dotted with small ponds.

ST8124 - pond near Cole Street Farm
I began an earnest search for somewhere to pee and somewhere to drink my cup of tea - in that order. A pile of logs sufficed just by my field's exit into what I hoped would be more inspiring terrain, but feared more of the same would ensue.

I had made an error in my plotting. yes, a genuine, can-only-blame-it-on-myself error. There was no footpath between the road end at Cowslip Farm (lovely name) and the next lumpy footpath to East Stour Common. Never mind, there was a path through a field, I would use that - or so I thought until I spied the herd of cattle scratching themselves against the very fence I needed to hurdle. I'll never know if that was a footpath or not, because I chose instead to stride westwards towards High Grove Farm where I gazed hopelessly at the map and then the field I thought I should be in but couldn't see how to get in it without further trespass. My anxious ruminations were  allayed when the farmer or his wife pulled out of their drive and stopped when she saw my consternation. She was very helpful and after ascertaining my direction of perambulation, assured me it was OK to go in that field and that the electric fence was not switched on. "I'm a rambler myself," she added, "So I know how difficult it can be at times to find these paths." Phew! I was not being a total idiot.

I entered said non-electric-fenced field boldly and made my way to East Stour Common, passing two highlights en route. Or, to be more accurate, being passed multiple times when one highlight - the hawking Common Hawker. Electric blue, it taunted me with its hithering and thithering, defying capture on film until at last it alighted on a bramble just long enough for my lens to focus on its captivating eyes.


Common Hawker, male

Common Hawker - eye detail

A bicycle made an attractive sign for Gable Cottage B and B at East Stour Common and the Kings Arms would probably have been a good place for me to call it a day.

Gable Cottage B and B - ST8123

The Kings' Arms, East Stour Common - ST8123
I didn't call it a day, however, but strode purposefully on past Fry's Farm, taking the first left turn thereafter towards Duncliffe Wood. I knew this was going to be worth a visit because there was a bird icon on the map here which surely heralded good things.

Fry's Farm - ST8122
At last I was encountering other people, and walkers nonetheless. I realised this was going to be a hill, but hadn't appreciated how steep it was going to be. I stopped halfway up to talk to a dog walker who walks here regularly and we exchanged thoughts on the recently posted warnings against deer poaching. My fellow walker assured me it was worth the climb to the top, "although, " she added, "the trees have grown a lot over the years." I took it she meant the view was partially obscured - and she was correct. I could just about make out the surrounding landscape from the top where I bagged a new Dorset trigpoint and found a seat upon which to sit with my lunch.

Duncliffe Hill and Wood - ST8222

Duncliffe Hill trigpoint - ST8222
Descending the hill meant briefly entering Explorer Map No. 118 - Shaftesbury and Cranborne Chase. There were some lovely views eastwards once I'd exited the wood, towards Green's Farm and south towards Jolliffe's Farm.

Green's Farm - ST8322

Jolliffe's Farm from ST8322

I re-entered the woodland, the property of the Woodland Trust and perused the information board which listed all the things you could see here.

Information board, eastern entrance to Duncliffe Wood - ST8322

The walk thereafter was contained within squares I'd already walked through and I encountered nothing remarkable on route, with the exception of a delightful interruption in monotony in the form of a phone call from my son.

Within hearing distance of the busy A30 I walked fearfully in its direction, pausing to take a requisite photo for gridsquare ST8022 - a new building which seemed to form part of Manor Farm.

New build, Manor Farm - ST8022
I was nearly knocked off my feet upon emerging at the B3092. It baffles me how footpaths can suddenly emerge onto a busy road with no roof whatsoever for feet to manoeuvre out of traffic's way. There was no verge, let alone a pavement. I've no idea what the speed limit was, but guessed it should be 30 as it is not far from the village of East Stour.

It was East Stour I was rushing towards now. I managed a few steps each time before hurtling myself into the undergrowth to avoid collision with the oncoming traffic. Fortunately I did not have to risk my life for too long before reaching the crossroads, where I headed left towards the church.

Christ Church, East Stour - ST7922
Stained glass window in Christ Church, East Stour
My death-defying sprint on the B3092 had been a rehearsal for the real thing - a stroll along the A30, there being no pedestrian right of way, directly or indirectly in the direction of my intended travel. i do not recommend this unless you want to photograph two things - a milepost or The Udder Farm Shop. I was surprised to see the latter as I have stopped here for refreshment on one occasion and it was tempting to do so again, but I wanted to get this nightmare over with as quickly as I could, so continued resolutely onwards.

Milepost on A30 - ST8022

The Udder Farm Shop (great name, but of course which can be photographed with a lot less risk by parking in the shops' car park) - ST8022

I would not have had to pass this farm shop if the footpath I had planned to take was still extant.  This would have halved my risky walk. Breathing the biggest sigh of relief I've ever breathed on a walk (I think), I sprinted across the road and joined a farm track to Hartgill Farm, only to meet a huge pick up truck coming the other way. Arrggh! Was this walk destined for noise, pollution, blood-curdling fear and heart attack dodging events? As I wandered along a seldom-used footpath, I turned to take a photograph of a much more attractive view of the village I'd just left.

East Stour - ST8023
But I was back onto a main road again, or at least the B3092. Without prolonging the walk extensively there was just no avoiding it. I passed the telephone mast at Hunger Hill and collapsed into a field. With the delights of Gillingham spread tantalisingly before me, I picked myself up and wandered happily through mown fields northwards to Madjeston.

Approaching Gillingham - ST8024

I was looking forward to seeing the meandering River Stour and ambling beside its luscious banks. I wondered what the bridge would be like at Madjeston Farm.

Madjeston Bridge - ST8025
I needn't have held my breath.

Lying in all its ploughed glory before me now lay the biggest field I think I've ever seen. i was torn between my overwhelming desire to end the walk by striding defiantly across the field directly towards the station and my sense of obligation to follow the path. My Jiminy Cricket conscience prevailed - after all, I'd be following the river, perhaps I'd see the flash of a Kingfisher streaking by. As it happened I did see a flash of something streaking by, but it wasn't a Kingfisher. Intrigued by some rapid, partially obscured movement in a garden adjacent to the field, and in full view of said field and footpath (which is relevant), I approached to see the origin of these movements. The bark of a dog, some rapid re-dressing and strategic re-positioning of shed garments revealed a couple whom I had obviously interrupted in a little afternoon relaxation. "Don't let me stop you," I hailed as I strode purposefully on, religiously following that footpath. "Lovely location for it," I added with just a trace of sarcasm as I set my feet towards Brickfields Business Park and my journey's end.

There's no accounting for folk - a Gillingham love nest - ST8025

Number of gridsquares: 12
Number of interrupted intimacies; 1
Number of miles: 10.8
Number of churches: 1
Number of trigpoints: 1

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