Sunday, 3 December 2017

Corscombe/Benville/West Chelborough road extraordinaire - 7.2 miles - 1st December 2017

There are three categories of walks:
1) Those you do and think 'When can I do that again?'
2) Those you think 'I will never do that again'
3) And those you know before you start that you won't ever be repeating it.

Today's walk was in the third category. I did it purely to gain the gridsquares and I did it on my own partly because I thought no-one would want to join me and partly because I knew it was a semi-dangerous walk along roads for most of the way. There is a dearth of footpaths around Benville but there was no point in putting off the unavoidable. I was going to have to do it sometime so I chose a really frosty day and off I set from Corscombe on what will probably be my last square bagging day of 2017!

Sadly Corscombe church was locked. I was so cold I was tempted to start my flask of tea before I'd even started walking, but resisted the temptation and walked into Coombe Bottom instead, immediately forgetting that the footpath has been diverted; you don't have to walk along the road for as much before turning into the field. I walked round the edge of the woodland and then descended into the valley on one of six footpaths heading south. This was a new one for me and a pleasant one, especially as the frost had made the ground harder. I could see how muddy it would be usually.

I'd walked about a mile before I was in a new gridsquare at Urlees Farm which I approached with high expectations as it has got two sizeable ponds. I couldn't see anything on them though.

Urlees Farm - ST5103
Urlees Farm - ST5103
 This farm has perhaps one of the most enviable views in Dorset. Once I'd slogged my way up to the main road and exited its elaborate gateposts I turned round and gasped. It doesn't come out well on the photo, but anyone travelling along that A356 Crewkerne to Bridport road who looks out of the window knows how high up you are and can occasionally catch a glimpse of the view. Well, I could linger and look today and what an amazing view it is. I was already beginning to wish I could bring the group just to see that view!

I wasn't looking forward to the road bit, but was relieved to see wide verges on both sides of the road which made this short stretch on the A356 much more palatable. I was in search of the Hore Stones. It has been said these may be the remains of a chambered long barrow. There is a convenient parking place next to what remains of these stones, although there is now very little left to see.

Hore Stone on A356 - ST5103
I marched on quickly to my turn off to Benville and took a photo for this gridsquare.

Near Toller Down Gate - ST5203
The air was crisp and cold and I felt very alive and was constantly listening for traffic, of which there was a fair bit as I wandered down to Benville, a hamlet I cannot recall having visited before. I took a 50 yards diversion to photograph the gateposts of Benville Manor as my subject for ST5303, my third new gridsquare of the day.
Entrance to Benville Manor - ST5303
Thatched cottage, Benville, ST5303
 As I approached the erstwhile pub, The Talbot Arms, I remembered the conversation  we'd had recently in which someone had reminded us that this pub was no longer open. The empty pub sign, though not creaking in the wind, seemed somehow very ghostly, a poignant reminder of more profitable, cheerful times, when the community gathered to share gossip over a drink or two. The nearest pubs now are the Fox Inn at Corscombe and the Acorn at Evershot, both nice pubs, but I wish I'd been to this one when it was open - and I don't think it was all that long ago either. A book I read online mentions that the 17th Century pub had been run by one couple since 2002.

The Talbot Arms, Benville - ST5403
With four gridsquares behind me, I trotted on (sometimes literally on bends in the road) to Benville Bridge. Paul and I used to come this way on our way to Evershot when we lived in East Coker, so I was familiar with this crossroads and the unusual sign on the bridge.

Benville Bridge - ST5503

Sign on Benville Bridge - ST5503

Crossroads at Benville Bridge - ST5503
I haven't been able to find out much about the origin of the sign, but there are at least two other such signs on bridges in Dorset, one on Grey's Bridge at Dorchester and the other near Sturminster Newton. I wonder if anyone ever got transported for life and if you could choose where you went to!

That was my fifth gridsquare and I was now on my way to the Red Post, although thankfully not under marching orders as some of my walking predecessors are thought to have been. There are four red posts in Dorset and there is approximately 14 miles between each red post, leading to the line of thought that they represented stopping points for guards and prisoners after a day's walk en route from Dorchester Gaol to Portsmouth. The posts are situated on the  A31 near Anderson and Bloxworth, Horsey Knap lane, Benville Bridge, Hewood and B3145 Poyntington. This information is from http://yertiz.co.uk/four-red-fingerposts-dorset/ but I don't see where Portsmouth comes into it - an interesting theory otherwise though. They may have been painted red to stand out in a plethora of signs or it may have been because many of those walking were illiterate.

Damaged red post at Horsey Lane - ST5503
I was sorry to see this red post so damaged and hoped this was due to natural causes and not wilful vandalism.

Road walking may be pretty boring, but I was learning some history as I walked and thinking of those who had gone before under pretty gruelling circumstances. OK, so I hadn't yet found anywhere to sip my hot flask of tea, but I'd only been walking for four miles, not fourteen and I knew I'd got a hot meal and a bed waiting for me when I got home.

Road walking is also pretty quick. I'd deliberately chosen a shorter walk today as I'd only got the morning to do it in. Paul works half day on Fridays and I wanted to get back for lunch, so I quickened my pace and darted out of the way of a few passing cars as I walked towards West Chelborough, turning at the fascinating Grexy Cross. Really, I must find a way of discovering the origins behind all of these names. There seems to be a dearth of information out there, even in these days of modern technology.

I leaned over a hedge for ST5504, taking a photo of Horsey Farm.

Horsey Farm - ST5504

Grexy Cross - ST5504
I surprised myself by choosing not to take the first opportunity of a footpath I'd had in miles; it was longer than the road way and it was not as if there was much traffic on the road. So I took my requisite photo for ST5404 and ignored the foopath sign at Hemlock Farm.


Entrance to Hemlock Farm - ST5404

Castle Hill from White Lane
 Opposite the footpath from Hemlock Farm is a footpath leading north-east towards the Iron Age fort of Castle Hill. After miles of road walking and hours without a cup of tea I was relieved to see the first cottage of West Chelborough, and a delightful little cottage it was too.

Thatched Cottage, West Chelborough - ST5405
West Chelborough is one of those 'land that time forgot' villages nestling in the heart of west Dorset, off the beaten track, away from the coast and where few people see any reason to visit. Enter Becky. Laden down with heavy rucksack, camera and binoculars. There was no-one to congratulate on having such a well-kept village; not a soul stirred in this quaint little village. What do people do all day? I wondered in a Richard Scarry way, not for the first time on my many west Dorset rambles.

At the church I was glad to find the door open and made hopefully not irreverent use of the organists' stool as a table for my refreshments. These west Dorset churches tend to have very narrow pews and few of them. It could not ever have seated more than about 50 and probably has far fewer attendees than that these days.

A grey memorial on the wall drew my attention and I went to read it. A sobering thought on which to ponder for the rest of my walk!


Sobering reminder, St Andrew's, West Chelborough - ST5405

Look here, my friends, behold and see
This house of clay in which I be
Pray do you not lament for me
But fear your own Mortality
For I am here in earth confind
To leave my little ones behind
As now I be you shortly must
Be here with me and lodge in dust

ELIZABETH Y WIFE OF MOSES Greenham
DECEASED JULY THE 16TH 1715
AGED 28 YEARS

St Andrew's Church, West Chelborough - ST5405

Letting the sun in, St Andrew's, West Chelborough - ST5405

Lectern, St Andrew's, West Chelborough - ST5405

Reclining figure, St Andrew's, West Chelborough - ST5405
Apparently the two treble bells in this church are dated 1275 and are thought to be the oldest in Dorset.

With all these thoughts running through my head, I turned into the garden of Manor Farm which is the footpath back to Corscombe. I remembered Paul saying he had walked this way and it looked as if they were entering a garden. We've had enough experience of walking the footpaths of west Dorset to become emboldened when it comes to entering footpaths which look as if they are on private property so I felt quite at ease entering the farmyard and even paused to take a photograph of the lopsided phone box. My sense of ease quickly evaporated when I heard the sound of gunshot, however. I often hear that in the countryside down here and it never fails to alarm me. I shall never be reconciled to it,k particularly when the shooting is for sport. Pheasant breeding and shooting is a pastime of the gentry and I have no time for it whatsoever. Pheasants were introduced to this country long ago and they should not be encouraged to breed merely for the sport of those who can afford to shoot them. That's my opinion and I do not often voice it, but when I read on a shooting forum that there is no legal requirement about shooting distances on public footpaths, I was horrified. Whatever is deemed safe is the answer apparently and also apparently, walkers are often quite keen to stand and watch whilst the shooting takes place. I've certainly never met any walkers who have or would relish that opportunity. As far as I'm concerned if there's a public footpath there and people want to shoot game, there should at least be a warning sign to say so. After all, there are lots of warning signs about cattle and bulls in fields when they're not even there. Gun shot is at least as much a risk as far as I can see.


Lopsided phone box, West Chelborough, ST5405
Rant over except to say I didn't enjoy the next quarter of a mile or so whilst dogs ran harum scarum around me and men hollered unnaturally and guns were shot randomly (it seemed). I wasn't sure whether the guns were being shot to warn other shooters there was a member of the public walking through the field or whether they were shooting game.
Shooting in Chelborough Park - ST5305
I walked through several more fields quickly, putting distance between myself and the din.


Chelborough Park - ST5304
I entered some woodland where the path had been slightly diverted and emerged close to Corscombe at Woodwall.


Footpath into woods at Woodwall - ST5304

Just a few more fields and woodland and I was back onto the road at Corscombe by the attractive Fox Inn, where we really must go and eat one day. It's one of the most attractive pubs I've seen down here. A short walk uphill and I was back at the car. Now there's definitely bits of that walk I would like to repeat but I think you know the bits I don't!


Woodland near Corscombe - ST5205

The Fox Inn, Corscombe - ST5205

Number of new gridsquares: 10
Number of miles walked: 7.2
Number of locked churches: 1
Number of open churches: 1
Number of dogs: 4






Thursday, 30 November 2017

The Land of the Fairies - Litton Cheney to Askerswell circular - 11.2 miles, 25th November 2017



This may well be the longest walk I've done for the shortest return! By 'return' I mean how many new gridsquares I gained. It reminds me a little of my 14 mile walk on Islay for the sake of two miles of coastline which I needed to walk to 'join up the gap'. Except that this was a much easier walk and did not involve an overnight stay, otters, gamekeepers and free trout!

Jane was able to join us for the day and what a day it was; my absolutely favourite, the sort which continues to bless us now - cold, frosty, crisp, clear . . . My hips were still a bit achy from my dance, but I wasn't going to let that or anything else bother me today. We wanted to reccy this walk for a group walk in December. It is almost identical to one I did in August when I did bag some new gridsquares. This was a repeat with a small change so I won't include photos of all the gridsquares this time.

We parked on the road by the White Horse which extended the walk a few hundred yards as we walked back to the church with its backdrop of serenely blue sky.
St Mary's Church, Litton Cheney - SY5590
The same photo in the summer has more green, but less blue!



We walked the same route across fields to Long Bredy where we popped into the church for an early cup of tea and were briefly joined by some other ramblers who we discovered had walked down the bridleway on the east side of Long Barrow Hill. They didn't actually say ,"we walked down the bridleway on the east side of Long Barrow Hill." They said, "yes," when Paul asked them if they were the two figures he'd seen walking down that way. Then they said they'd walked past this church many times before, but had never been inside. We agreed it was a beautiful church, but I think it is lamentable that so many people, even walkers, do not pause to visit more historic sites, especially when they're right on their doorstep. I can afford to be smug here, of course, because I always do! "Why aren't we doing that?" Paul questioned when we were back outside. "Doing what?" I queried, "Walking round the other side of the hill," he muttered, craning his head as if to exaggerate his opinion that the other way was bound the better. Honestly, there's no pleasing some people! I promised him we would when we did this walk 'for real' with the group. I'm guilty of the same thing though, always imagining that the grass is greener on the other side; choosing to go down one route and then bemoaning the fact I haven't chosen the other route - a bit like Robert Frost's wonderful poem, The Road Not Taken.

St Peter's Church, Long Bredy - SY5790
There was no cattle in the fields this time as we ascended Long Barrow Hill, for which we were grateful as it is quite a slog up there. Last time I had to go via the more gradual route but my heart was still pounding with fear when I couldn't see the huge bull and wondered if he might just be abot to thunder across the field towards me!

We were walking more or less parallel to  Long Bredy Hut Lane which we'd driven down earlier without realising that was its name. I wonder how it got its name? I googled it, but couldn't find anything out. From here we could see the sea - always an exciting sight!

Shipton Hill from Long Barrow Hill - SY5790
We crossed the busy A35 and went straight down a bridleway, past tumuli and North Barn Farm. We were amused by the electronic gate opening system which invited you to 'Press to Open' but we guessed it was for vehicular use only and opted to use the pedestrian gate instead.

It's a pleasant walk along a farm lane to a crossroads here which threw me momentarily as there was a big digger parked at our crossroads. We managed to get round the digger and onto another path open to all traffic before reaching the minor 'yellow' road at which I'd decided we would turn left and then right to avoid walking up the long straight stretch of road I'd used last time.

This turned out to be a mistake as it was hard going walking through a huge field of flint and we thought it would be inappropriate to bring a large group here so next time we'll just have to put up with the road. The views are amazing though and I realised that, although SY5592 wasn't a new gridsquare for me, I'd somehow failed to get a photo of it last time, so I was going to bag two new squares on this visit. Yippee!

Haydon Down - SY5592

Walking across flinty fields at Haydon Down - SY5592
 We could see across acres of hills and valleys to Golden Cap and the glimmering sea beyond, marred only by that ubiquitous pylonic eyesore. In days of yore this would have been a marvel to behold.

Paul was getting hungry and a little grumpy (the two go together). We promised him an early lunch spot as soon as we could find somewhere suitable to sit. "Yonder barn is our next landmark," I whispered to Jane out of Paul's earshot. "I'm not sure we'll find anywhere out of the wind before then." By the time we reached said barn (Two Gates) we didn't care about being out of the wind; we just wanted our lunch so we chose  seat with a view (not difficult) and munched on cheese rolls and gulped hot tea.

From Two Gates - SY5493

Haydown Down near Two Gates - SY5492
Fortified, we stood up to move onwards, but not upwards, "we're heading downhill!" I cheered, leading the way confidently across the plateau of Haydon Down. It wasn't long before I realised my desire to go downhill had led us prematurely down the wrong side of the hill, or at least we were heading that way. Naturally I quickly realised and bumped us along further left, keen to remain on the bridleway. On the lee side of the hill we found a path which led all the way down to Stancombe Farm and beyond to Naller's Farm. We wondered at how anyone could live this far down in the valley. I'd commented on how, despite the feeling of remoteness here, we had been constantly ale to see and hear traffic throughout our walk thus far. The A35 is never far away, but unless you wanted to get to these farms you'd never know they were there and we wondered what the tracks were like in the winter. I imagine, perhaps wrongly, that folk that live in these farms lead solitary lives, deliberately choosing to be far away from other people, but I suspect I am wrong. I hazard to guess that mostly the farm has been passed down from one generation to the next and there has been little choice in the matter. In days of yore of course the huge acreage covered by just a few farms would have been divided up into many more fields belonging or tenanted by many more farmers. Such were the days of Corncrakes and Skylarks galore, sadly now either gone forever from these corners or in serious decline.

Lane to Stancombe Farm - SY5492

Stancombe Farm - SY492

Fencepost at Stancombe Farm - SY5492

Such was our discussion as we plodded down the lane, glad to now be on more even terra firma. A rustling and movement caught our attention as we walked into the farmyard and a man's head appeared behind some rusty machinery. "We didn't see you there," Jane laughed as we bade the farmer a good morning.  He bade us a silent greeting, almost imperceptibly nodding his head in our  direction, as if to confirm my suspicions that the residents here are self-elected recluses. We hurriedly glanced at the map to decided which footpath we needed to be on, feeling the glare of the farmer who probably wasn't used to seeing many walkers in his farmyard. One track leads south to the A35 which is obviously the most direct (and probably only) road to Stancombe Farm. "We're heading west," I declared, explaining that my route had an almost phallic appearance drawn out on the Ordnance Survey map and that we were 'now leaving the phallus', "but entering the new gridsquare," I said, injecting as much excitement as I possibly could into my voice in the hope of it brushing off onto my fellow walkers. They didn't seem as excited as I'd hoped, but then I'm used to that!

It took us a bit longer than necessary to get to Naller's Farm on account of all the interesting rusting machinery left lying about and the splendid examples of strip lynchets now languishing in November apricity, sadly redundant.

Walking towards Naller's Farm - SY5492
Strip lynchets at Naller's Farm - SY5492
Strip lynchets at Naller's Farm - SY5492

Rusty wheel at Naller's Farm - SY5492
Really, there is a lot to be seen and admired here and it is sad that probably very few feet wander this far into contour lines to do so. On guard duty at Naller's Farm were some rather scary stone creatures on the wall.

Gargoyle guards at Naller's Farm - SY5492
We then crossed a spring, a magical spring appearing from nowhere and disappearing into the hills, frequented no doubt by fairies and elfin creatures as we were evidently in their territory.
Fairy spring at Naller's Farm - SY5492

Here also be hedge layers and more relics of days gone by.

Hedge laying at Naller's Farm - SY5492

Left to rust - SY5492
We were now not far from Askerswell and passed fields with horses. I took photos of all of them in case one belonged to our friend who keeps her horse here. I tried calling its name but there was no response, although my call was a bit feeble as I was a little fearful of calling too loud in case Magic came galloping across the field towards us!

Horses at Askerswell - SY5392
My offer of another stop at Askerswell Church was rejected on the grounds of it getting late and we were only just going to make it back before dark as it was. So we plodded on through this delightful village, pausing only to ponder the logic behind a weird crossroads where one road abruptly ends.


Confusing junction at Askerswell - SY5392

 I couldn't resist photographing some skeletal trees and admired the inosculation between branches of one particular tree.

Inosculation at Askerswell - SY5392

Trees at Askerswell - SY5392
We now had to negotiate a little bit of bog and probably the most unpleasant part of the walk - a steep climb to the A35. "But it's quickly over," I promised as we headed towards the traffic's deafening roar. There is no lead up to this 'mare' (Paul's son's term for 'nightmare'); you puff and pant your way up several contours to meet the ugly grey crash barrier, teeter on the side of the hill whilst waiting for a break in the traffic sufficient to get you half way across and then stand tall with your high vis jacket on waiting to sprint across the second half of the death-defying A35. If that hasn't put you offf this walk, nothing will!

Immediately on the other side you are rewarded with more glorious views. You can now ascend if you wish to Chilcombe Hill Fort and don imaginary weaponry and clothing of Iron Age times. We didn't, being well and truly in the present moment, muddy step by muddy step and bramble by bramble as we squelched our way through the thickest mud of the walk yet. I reminded my companions that 'this was nothing' compared to the mud of my walk only two days before. Eventually I had to concede it was in fact 'something' and enough to warrant revising the route, albeit only ever so slightly, in order to avoid the mud.

From Chilcombe Hill - SY5292

Shipton Hill and tumuli - SY5292

Cloudscape over Shipton Hill - SY5291
Finding the road into the hamlet of Chilcombe, we marched on past a sign inviting visitors to 'please park here' although the rest of the sign is now illegible. Fairies at work again?

Please Park Here, Chilcombe - SY5291
We descended into civilisation and the 12th Century as we paused to enter diminutive Chilcombe Church, one of my favourites. Apparently it never was any bigger, the community never having either diminished or grown over the years, though the churchyard once extended more visibly.

Chilcombe Church - SY5491

 There are always free range hens strutting around here which are a delight to see and the churchyard gate is consequently always left open.

Free-range Chilcombe hen - SY5491

We continued now without stopping back to Litton Cheney, still admiring the views and marvelling at our wonderful walk. We opted to take the footpath to the pub across the fields which has probably been in use for hundreds of years. At the White Horse we joined the vociferous locals by the fire and raised a cup of tea in celebration of a fabulous walk.

Number of new gridsquares: 2
Number of miles:11.2
Number of churches: 4
Number of contours: innumerable