Toller Fratrum, Wynford Eagle and West Compton

The weather forecast looked great again and I find it hard to resist the opportunity to get out and walk. Fortified by my last walk, I plotted a route which was 11.4 miles and intended setting out earlier than usual. Note to self - always set off half an hour earlier than you think you need to, otherwise you'll set off half an hour later. So that's what happened today.

My parking spot had been chosen only because I wasn't sure I could park amywhere else and didn't want to be driving round for ages looking. At least I knew for certain I could park where there was a big blue P sign on the map - do not be fooled by big blue P signs; they do not always mean what you think they mean. I squeezed into the parking spot, got my gaiters on (eventually) and set off eager to take my first photo on this serene day.

Field systems great - Paul would be pleased!


The first part of the walk was a bit monotonous. I'd thought there'd be no traffic on the road, which was a mistake; there was quite a lot of farm traffic on the road so I kept having to smile sweetly and step onto the muddy verge to allow vehicles to pass. But hey ho, it was a lovely day and it couldn't be far to the footpath surely? On checking my map (for the umpteenth time), I discovered it was about a mile to the footpath, which is longer than I generally like to walk along a road. With not much to photograph, I listened to the sounds of birds and looked for signs of spring whilst I plodded on tar mac and took a boring photo of a farm sign for SY5595 - albeit the sign for Woolcombe Farm, the supplier of Eggardon Natural Spring Water.

Field systems (SY5594)

Tree on Shatcombe Lane

Woolcombe Farm (SY5595)

I worked out that the next gridsquare was where I'd leave the road and join the footpath for Ferndown Farm so I plodded along until that point.

Bridleway to Ferndown Farm (SY5695)

I managed to miss the footpath at Ferndown Farm - it is confusing, there being a confluence of footpaths at this point. Fortunately I hadn't gone far so I retraced my steps and went through a gate and headed north-east towards Prestwood. I wasn't in this square for very long, but I was in the next one for even less long!

Bridleway to Ferndown Farm (SY5696)

Prestwood (SY5697)

Footpath crossroads: Toller Porcorum/Wynford Eagle/Toller Fratrum/Shatcombe Lane (SY5796)

I was approaching Toller Fratrum and my first destination. There was an unusual conduit upheld by stone pillars just after Little Toller Farm; for which purpose I knew not.

Conduit at little Toller Farm (SY5797)

I followed the sign to the church and there amidst the daffodils was a quaint little church with an interesting history.

Parish Church of St Basil. Toller Fratrum (SY5797)

'Toller' is Saxon for 'River with deep gravelly pools' and 'Fratrum' translates as 'of the brothers'. I wasn't able to confirm the veracity of either of these claims. There has been a church on the site since time immemorial. Of particular note in this one is the font (apparently). Scholars dispute the age, but agree that it is very old! There is either a man-faced Lion of Judah succouring the human race depicted in the stonework or Christ and His apostles, some of whom are depicted as martyrs. Take your pick.

But I was more interested in the newspaper article about 'The Titfield Thunderbolt'. Apparently the congregation and the vicar fell out because the congregation objected to the 'happy-clappy' style of worship introduced by their vicar and subsequently declared a state of independence which effectively closed the church. Seems rather a shame to me.

Metaphorically closed or not, the door seemed to me to be literally closed and locked. Despite following the instructions to 'give the door a good push', I couldn't gain access to this little church. having partaken of my morning tea, I reluctantly turned away, resigning myself to not getting in, when I bumped into a parishioner and inquired about the church. He promptly gave the door a good push (evidently better than my push) and the door opened!

Inside St Basil's Church - it is lit mostly by candles.

Font in St Basil's Church, Toller Fratrum

After a quick look round, I left the church for a second time and headed off into a cow field. Oops. I really don't like it when there are cows in a footpathed field. I have repeatedly sought reassurance from farmers about this, hoping that they'll say something like 'Oh, don't worry about them! They'll not go anywhere near you!' Sadly, however, this hasn't happened; quite the opposite in fact. They've advised me to walk through a different field instead (in some cases!)

In this instance, I walked at some distance from the cows and calves and breathed a sigh of relief when I was safely through the gate. I wandered up High Hill and eastwards to Fore Hill, noting the many pits (dis) in view.

View west from High Hill (SY5796)

Pits (dis) in Blanchard Plantation (SY5896)

The hamlet of Wynford Eagle and my second church was soon in view, nestled in the valley between two chalk ridges. I passed the time of day with some removal men and walked down to the church. Sadly this one was definitely locked, but I peered through the grating and got a good idea of the lay out of the interior.

Apparently 'Wynford' is derived from an old Celtic river name for a tributary to the River Frome meaning 'white' or 'bright stream' and 'Eagle' is from the medieval family of Gilbert del Egle (latinized form de Aquila) who came from L’Aigle in France.

Wynford Eagle's most famous resident was Thomas Sydenham, born in the Manor House in 1624. An Oxford graduate he went on to serve in the Parliamentary army and then to practise as a doctor and surgeon in Westminster. In the course of his life he is credited as being the first person to write clinical descriptions of many diseases, including scarlet fever, pleurisy and gout. Now known as The English Hippocrates, his achievements were not recognised during his lifetime. He died in 1689 and is buried in St James' Churchyard, Piccadilly.

Whilst I could not go in the church, I could admire the tympanum beside the door.This is a sort of arched stone carving and is relatively rare. This one depicts two beasts which look about to engage in battle.

St Lawrence's Church, Wynford Eagle (SY5895)

Tympanum, St Lawrence's Church, Wynford Eagle

Bridge over tributary of River Hooke (SY5895)

I headed south now, crossing the tributary of the River Hooke and looking back often to the picturesque scene I'd left behind.

St Lawrence's Church, Wynford Eagle

I briefly entered SY5795 and took a photo of a barn and then continued on the Jubilee Trail south through arable land (SY5794 and SY5793), with little of excitement to photograph, with the exception of an ancient settlement northwest of Compton Barn.

Barn on Jubilee Trail, Round Hill (SY5795)



Settlement near Compton Barn (SY5794)

Reservoir on Jubilee Trail (SY5793)

I crossed the minor road and entered a large plantation, mainly of Scots Pines with a good footpath running through it and plenty of signs advising that access to the right and left was largely prohibited on the grounds that it was a conservation area.

I stopped for lunch in the middle of this plantation and watched Chaffinches and other passerines flit amongst the trees.

Crossroads in woodland (SY5792)

A standing stone was my feature for SY5791, albeit from a distance as the footpath did not run through the field in question.

Standing Stone near Long Bredy (SY5791)

It took a while to cross the busy A35 and reach my southernmost gridsquare of the day - and the trigpoint at Martin's Down. There are fantastic views from here and lots of archaeological interest for those who have time in the form of many tumuli and barrows. I'm always heartened to see the sea and looked yearningly towards its glistening form before turning my back on it and heading northwards.

Trigpoint, Martin's Down (SY5791)

Long Bredy from Martin's Down

Tumulus, Martin's Down (SY5791)

There is a plethora of ancient burial grounds in this area and another tumulus, north of the A35 and en route to North Barn Farm was my chosen feature for SY5691.

Tumulus, North Barn Farm (SY5691)

SY5692 and SY5693 were rather boring squares and I was growing weary. The footpath wends its way north through arable land and is crossed by wacking great pylons.

Footpath northwards from North Barn Farm (SY5692)

Approaching the Roman Road near West Compton (SY5693)

SY5693 was far from boring birdwise, however. I scared a small flock of Golden Plover and was delighted to hear their piping call, reminiscent of long hill walking days on Islay.

When I got to the road I realised that I couldn't join the footpath I had in mind without scrambling under a barbed wire fence. Instead I walked westwards along the road.

I joined another right of way (shown by green circles) and headed down the valley towards West Compton.

Approaching West Compton (SY5693)

I took a wrong turn at West Compton but quickly realised my mistake and retraced my steps, turning right just before the archway to West Compton house. I was busy admiring a garden bench made from a cartwheel when a voice addressed me, "Hello," Awoken from my woodworking reverie, I turned to see a lady drinking tea in her garden. I enquired about the church (my third of the day) and she said it was closed to the public. her tone indicated her displeasure at this fact and my reply indicated mine! "Oh, I've come such a long way," I implored, hoping that she could magically open the doors for me. She advised me to return from whence I'd come (Really?) and bang on the door of the big house. I followed her advice (I dared not do otherwise for her eyes were following me) and found Mr Stewart mending a roof. he was ever so sorry, he assured me, but he couldn't open the church for me as he was fixing a roof whilst he still had daylight. I understood, I replied, disappointment and disbelief in my voice as I turned away. In the end, he gave me his phone number so I could arrange a guided tour next time I was 'passing'. This information did little to appease the embittered tea drinker. "We raised a vast sum of money at the fete for the church", she bemoaned and even we can't access the church.

It took a lot of will-power to turn down the proffered cup of tea ("I've still got two miles to go," I explained "and if I sit down, I'll not get back up again.") I assured the lovely couple that when I returned I would take them up on their offer of refreshments for I found out they were going to Skye in April and in fact the husband hailed from Barra.    Instead I went on to view the church and its Churchill gravestones (relatives of our erstwhile Prime Minister). 

St Michael's Church, West Compton (SY5694)

I headed westwards now, past Eggardon Hill Farm where I waited for a farmer to herd his sheep. he then pointed out the way I should go to return to my car. I had viewed my car from several different locations throughout the day and none so frustrating as now for I had to walk an extra mile on designated footpaths in order to reach it legitimately (rather than wander illegitimately through fields and perhaps be thwarted by barbed wire fences).

Though all my squares were 'done' I paused to take photos when it pleased me and also to add to my list of birds for the day as I saw Tufted Duck, Moorhen and Mallard at a pond just beyond the farm. had I had time, inclination or energy i would also have paused to pass the time of day with a pair of cyclists who may also have been trig baggers who were taking photos at the trigpoint at Eggardon Hill. It would only have been a short detour, but my 11.4 miles had turned into 13.5 miles and my feet were begging for a rest.

It had been a good day. 13.5 miles and 16 gridsquares.