Frome Valley Trail - Part 2 - Maiden Newton to Dorchester 25th August 2018

The day dawned bright and we rose bright and early ready for our adventure - part two of our Frome trail. We drove to Maiden Newton and parked at the station., then retraced our steps from the end of the walk yesterday to the familiar bridge where one of my first ever Dorset walks began.

Bridge over River Frome, Maiden Newton - SY5997

River Frome and photographer, Maiden Newton - SY5997

We've had many walks from Maiden Newton since that first one with the Dorset Walker and I have grown to love this little town, though I have never been in the cafe here (and think that every time we pass it!) It was a lovely day today and the Frome flowed contentedly on. There is something very soothing about a river, its calmness, reliability, its constancy, its energy, its gentle sounds, at least it was gentle today and we walked quite a bit by the Frome today.

We paid a brief visit to the church at Lower Frome Vauchurch, which is dedicated to St Francis.

St Francis' Church, Lower Frome Vauchurch - SY5997

There are two paths here, we took the one closer to the river (obviously).

The banks of the River Frome - SY6097

The river opens out in SY6096 and there are a couple of bridges to cross with a pawl and ratchet mechanism iron workings on to control the flow of water from the river into the watermeadows.

River Frome - SY6096

Pawl and ratchet mechanism on bridge over River Frome - SY6096

As we walked along the banks of the river, we saw a summer house on the opposite bank, which got us talking about having our own summer house, which led to confusion as I thought Paul meant our own summer house HERE - right here, by the Frome, so we could watch the River, hopefully the Kingfisher, Swans, dragonflies, water voles, herons, etc. "I like that idea," I said, immediately imagining idling away the hours watching wildlife from our own hide. "But will it be OK to just put one up here? Don't we need permission?"

"I meant in our garden!" Paul protested, looking quizzically at me. "But where will we put the river?" I objected.

River Frome near Cruxton, an ideal place for a summer house - SY6096

At Cruxton we crossed the Frome once more via a stone bridge, recalling the time when we'd had to sidle along the banks of the river to avoid walking past a bull who was blocking our exit.

Bridge over the Frome at Cruxton - SY6096

We'd now joined the Frome Cycleway which, as far as we can understand is part of the Frome Valley Way. As we walked I remembered that when I'd done my research for the walk, I'd googled the River Frome to see if there was already a walk along its length and discovered that it had only been done as far as Dorchester. When we started at Wareham last year, however, we saw signs for the Frome Valley Way, which made me think I'd obviously not read the most up-to-date information and I'd have to check again. I have and I had read the most up-to-date information which is obviously incorrect. I have since contacted Dorset County Council for clarification about this, so watch this space . . .

Our next landmark was Notton Farm, a huge building with arches to allow water to flow through in case of flood.

Notton Farm - SY6095

There's a bridge across the Frome here to join the A356, which is quite a good shortcut if you live here. The old sign on the bridge is a reminder of its relative antiquity, erected in days when 'traction engines' had not long superseded horse driven traffic and there was concern about the weight the bridge had to support. I think we could do with more such signs and restrictions about weight on roads in general given the size of some vehicles you see nowadays and the damage they do to the roads.

Notice on bridge at Notton - SY6095

At Throop, after ascending one of the only hills of the day (the other was Poundbury), we were reminded of the 'olden' days once more. The tractor on the right must be at least twice the size and weight of its older brother on the left!

The old and the new - tractors at Throop Farm- SY6195

We looked in vain for signs of an earthwork beyond Throop, but could see nothing obvious. At Nunnery Mead, however, there were more visible signs of a Roman villa and apparently a mediaeval village. We were a little deterred from visiting either, however, by the super inquisitive and stubborn flock of sheep which had chosen to use the gate as a scratching post and refused to budge.

Information board at Nunnery Mead Nature Reserve - SY6195

Stubborn sheep at Nunnery Mead - SY6195

On a previous visit we had attempted to walk round the nature reserve and get back onto the bridleway, but the paths through the reserve are very overgrown and we had had to give up and retrace our steps. It would seem that few people visit this reserve and that it receives little in the way of maintenance.

The green lanes between Throop and Southover are delightful, full of dappled shade and greenery today.

Green lane near Throop - SY6195

We were looking for somewhere to eat our lunch and commented on the dearth of benches along what was supposed to be a long distance path. There was simply nowhere out of Maiden Newton to sit, and I don't think we're fussy about where we sit either!

At Southover it is possible once again to cross the River Frome by means of a bridge and go into Frampton (Frome Town). We did not do so, but continued beyond Frampton House, which I didn't remember seeing before, despite several walks in the area.

Frampton House - SY6294

We stopped for lunch near here, making use of a fallen tree trunk to sit on. Several cyclists passed us and it was good to know this cycle way is being used. We hadn't long set off again when my attention was drawn to a herd of cows in the field next to the one we'd sat in. One cow was some way distant from the other and she was licking her new born calf. "She's only just given birth!" I declared, seeing the foetal sac still protruding from her rear end.

Cow and new-born calf - SY6294

We stood and waited for the calf to get onto its feet, but I reckon we had missed the birth by a matter of seconds and, being so brand new, it just wasn't ready to suckle yet. What a privilege to watch the gentle caring way this mother was attending to her baby and how sad that, being a dairy farm, the two would soon be separated. "Perhaps that's why the other cows are making so much noise," I suggested, "They're in mourning for their babies."

Having photographed the next few gridsquares, I went into relaxed mode until we came to Muckleford. Whilst I had photographed this gridsquare before (SY6493), we had never walked along the road we were walking on today. Paul had been reluctant to do so as there was hardly any verge and we didn't know how busy it was going to be. In the past we have gone through Muckleford Nature Reserve to Dorchester, but our mission today was to stick as close to the River Frome as possible, so we needed to walk along the road. "The Frome Valley Way goes this way," I reassured Paul as we saw the tell tale black arrow sign and then a few cyclists passed us as if to reinforce that reassurance.

Thatched cottage, Muckleford - SY6493

We decided to cross the river at Lower Wrackleford and were glad that the road was not too busy. We were distracted from worrying about the traffic in any case because of the discovery of wild hop growing here - in profusion!

Wild Hops near Bradford Peverell - SY6493

We wondered if there used to be breweries nearby to account for the proliferation of this well endowed shrub. It was everywhere, some male and some female, the coned version being the female.

Whilst Paul was enamoured by the hop, I was distracted by the appearance of the Roman Aquaduct. I'm fascinated by archaeology, although I know little about it. I love looking at the landscape through the eyes of a historian (the most amateur historian there is!) I love imagining the lives of those who once lived here, how their presence impacted the land and the wildlife. Where did they live? How did they work the land? Did they have the same worries as us? how did they spend their time? Travel? What did the landscape look like when the Romans were building their aquaduct and was the water used that of the River Frome? ("Of course," said Paul)

Roman aquaduct near Bradford Peverell - SY6493

Aside from the hops and the aquaduct, there were good views of the village of Stratton on the north banks of the Frome. This is a village I have yet to visit,by which I mean really, the church. That's how I measure whether I've been to a place in Dorset or not - have I visited the church? No matter that we've crossed the railway line west of the village and east of the village, there's about 100 yards in between where I've not actually been. And I don't have any reason other than visiting the church to do so for I have 'got' that gridsquare.

Stratton from near Bradford Peverell - SY6493

The aquaduct disappears into some trees but is never very accessible from the road; I'm not sure how you would access it.

Roman aquaduct near Bradford Peverell - SY6593

Whilst I have not visited the church at Stratton before, I have visited the one at Bradford Peverell before, so we were able to walk through the village without stopping.

Waterside, Bradford Peverell - SY6593

At Giles Cross we turned left to cross the River Frome and I took a photograph of the signpost with its attractive adornment of lichen.

Footpath sign at Giles Cross (the black arrow denoting the Frome Valley Way is visible beneath the yellow lichen pointing right) - SY6692

"I fancy a paddle," I said as we approached the River Frome. "It feels a fitting thing to do." Paul did not agree but took the obligatory photo.

Paddling in the River Frome - SY6692

I wasn't looking forward to walking along the A37 although we knew that's the way the Frome Valley Way goes. When we'd seen the long uphill climb from Giles Cross to Whitfield, we had made up our minds that we would rather walk along the A37 instead. A Painted Lady made up for an otherwise monotonous walk.

Painted Lady on A37

We passed a quaint little toll house which neither of us had noticed on many, many drives along this road.

Toll House on A37 - SY6792

"Our footpath is just after the toll house," I said, magnifying the screen on my phone so I could make absolutely sure I knew where it was supposed to be as that was another thing we hadn't noticed on previous occasions.

"There it is!" I said, pointing to a hidden footpath sign behind a crash barrier. "I think we've got to hop over the crash barrier to reach it." It took some time, but we managed to cross the road, hop over the crash barrier and that's where our real problem began. The footpath had obviously not been used in a very long time. "We should have brought the secateurs," we moaned as we trampled down briar and nettle. "I don't like not being able to see where I'm putting my feet," Paul said as he trod cautiously forward, clearing the way for me.

Fortunately we didn't have far to go before we reached a field which we crossed and then had to run for a few yards along the A37 before ducking down onto a bridleway near Whitfield Farm. Suddenly we were in the magical world of balsam. "This would be a nightmare for anyone who can't stand the smell of himalayan balsam," said Paul holding his nose. It's not my favourite smell in the world, but I can bear it. Good thing really as this field was awash with pink - a huge ecological problem to be sure.

The magical world of Himalayan Balsam - SY6791

River Frome near Whitfield Farm - SY6791

"Who would have thought this was here?" Paul asked as we gasped at the sheer and secret beauty of this place (despite the overpowering scent and presence of the balsam). We had discovered a little haven. The river flows on whilst the traffic of the modern day world literally drives over it, often oblivious to its presence. How often nature and the natural world is thus ignored and neglected - and often to our peril! We allowed the slow flowing waters and bird song to soothe us whilst we walked for soon we would be back into the hustle and bustle of a busy town.

When we reached the road we were in for another surprise in the form of a vineyard - D'Urberville's vineyard no less.

D'Urberville Vineyard, Whitfield - SY6791

We crossed the A37 by means of a bridge and quickly found the open access land at Poundbury where the Roman aquaduct is just visible.

Roman Aquaduct, Poundbury - SY6791

It's lovely walking across this ancient hill fort. At one time it would have been gleaming white when it was excavated for its purpose as a hill fort and now nature has taken over and it's a haven for rare butterflies like the Adonis Blue. I'd barely said to keep our eyes open for this butterfly when we saw one dazzling in the sunshine and being attacked by its cousin, the Common Blue. Sadly I didn't manage a good photo, but Paul did.

Adonis Blue, Poundbury - SY6891

The last thing of interest today was the ROC Post at Poundbury. This was more of interest to Paul than me. We had visited before if that's not an exaggeration. It is not possible to visit per se - you can only look at it nowadays, though there is a link to a blog by someone who has been down into the underground bunker here. Something Paul would love to do.

ROC Post, Poundbury - SY6891

We dragged our feet the last mile or so into Casterbridge or Dorchester where I insisted we partook of cake and tea at The Horse with the Red Umbrella so we listened to the owner chat away in Italian to a group of Italian tourists and munched on Danish Pastries and felt very cosmopolitan. We ran to catch the train and then realised there wasn't one and we would have to wait an hour. Never mind, we were fed and watered and sleepy and we'd had a very interesting and beautiful day.

Miles walked: 10.2
Number of new gridsquares: Possibly none
Number of newborn calves: 1
Number of bridges crossed: 8