Wednesday 27 April 2016

Ringstead to Durdle Door

Today's walk was different;  I was doing it with other people, a lot of other people, the Dorset Walkers. This is more sociable walking and I have to adjust - just slightly. It means juggling taking photographs with checking my position on my map and trying to engage in conversation - oh, and looking for all thing wildlife related at the same time. Not easy. Something has to go in these situations and it's usually my binoculars. That means I narrow down my focus to just talking and taking photographs and gasping at the awe-inspiring scenery.

For this was most certainly a day for awe-inspiring scenery and wonderful weather to go with it. A photographer's dream, in fact. We set off eastwards from Ringstead car park with me surreptitiously snapping photos en route.

Brimstone Bottom Barn (left) and Sea Barn Farm (right) - SY7682

We joined the South-west coast path and walked south-westwards towards Whitenothe where there are some coastguard cottages and a World War 2 pillbox.

Joining the south-west coast path - SY76781

Whitenothe from SY7681
We walked in the corner of SY7781 - time for another surreptitious photo of a Gorse bush.

South-west coast path in SY7781

Whitenothe means 'White Nose' and it's easy to see how it got this name. The chalk cliffs were gleaming bright white in the sun. there were stunning views of Portland, Weymouth and Ringstead Bay.

Ringstead Bay from Whitenothe - SY7780
World War II pill box - SY7780
We walked past West Bottom and the Beacon, presumably placed here as landmarks (there is another one further along). Then it was a steep descent to  Middle Bottom with fantastic views en route.

West Bottom beacon - SY7880
View eastwards towards Bat's Head from Middle Bottom - SY7880
Looking towards Whitenothe and Portland from SY7880
There was a steep ascent and then descent to Bat's Head, which juts precariously out into the ocean. I say precariously because none of us dared venture onto this pinnacle of land, especially after the recent landslips here. The family of rocky islets known from west to east as The Calf, The Cow, The Blind Calf and The Bull were visible only as dark shadows under the turquoise sea as it was high tide.

Butter Rock and Bat's Head
Steve told us that Butter or Cheese Rock is so named because at sunset the sun shines on it and turns it into a buttery yellow colour.

Butter Rock and eastwards - SY7980

The coast path has, by necessity, taken a detour inland here because the cliffs eroded away a couple of years ago and indeed continue to erode. It amazes me how there are not more fatalities than there are as people still picnic beneath the cliffs and walk dangerously close to the edge, desipte gaping holes which repeatedly appear.

At the turn off for Scratchy Bottom, we discussed our options - continue on to Durdle Door or head inland now up Scratchy Bottom. Forgetting my desire to see Scratchy Bottom, I voted most decidedly for seeing Durdle Door and there was a consensus on this option. Why waste a good day walking inland more than you need to? One possible reason you might decided on this latter course of action is the crowds. I was not prepared for the Spanish Riviera. Flocks of people of all ages and sizes suddenly crowded our path and were picnicing and lolling around on the beach whilst we laboured on. Then there was the monstrosity of the camp site with its caravans, pods and singular tent pitched puzzlingly next to the path. That's the bad stuff out of the way (oh, apart from the public toilets being closed -glad we hadn't paid to park here to discover that!) Now for the good news - the views! Wow! I am so glad I saw Durdle Door for the first time in brilliant sunshine with blinding white cliffs and diamond-studded sea.
Approaching Durdle Door with the crowds on the beach - SY8080















Durdle Door with the Bull rock visible in the centre of the photo. - SY8080

I liked the fact that Durdle Door was in a memorable gridsquare - SY8080.

We sat with our lunch and were joined by hungry opportunistic Rooks as we bathed in the sun, resisting the temptation to buy an overpriced soft drink or ice-cream.

We then headed north, through the aforementioned campsite, past Newlands Farm (recently converted into holiday cottages), and onto Daggers Gate where we were told the disturbing story about the witch who could turn herself into a hare and whose daughter stabbed the farmer here and how he continues to haunt the area.


House south of Newlands Farm - SY8180



Daggers Gate - SY8181

We turned north-westwards here and walked through fields of Rapeseed. The stunning yellow contrasted vividly with the bright blue sky.


Fields near Newlands Farm - SY8081

Usually I have found that the coastal path far exceeds the inland route in terms of scenery, but I was pleased to discover some hidden gems as we walked through valleys and past Winfrith Hill.


Disused chalk pit near Chaldon Herring - SY8082

There was another field of Rapeseed before we reached the delightfully named village of Chaldon Herring.


Rapeseed field near Chaldon Herring - SY7983

We passed through the sleepy village of Chaldon Herring, (Chaldon meaning a hill where calves graze). I liked the builder's sign on the Old Vicarage Farm. It must be pre1995 as that's when phONE day happened when all phone numbers had a 1 or 2 inserted after the 0.


Old sign on Old Vicarge Farm -SY7983

We resisted the temptation to call in at The Sailor's Return and laughing at the badly placed sign that John pointed out - warning lorry drivers that the footbridge will not bear the weight of their vehicle.




Unsuitable for HGVs - SY7983

Wearying now, we trudged northwards along the road towards The Five Marys, a series of tumuli with an intriguing name, about which I have not been able to discover the origin.


The Five Marys - tumuli - SY7984

Once again we headed westwards, crossing a minor road, more pits and a tumulus. The pits were chalk pits, chalk being widely used in the 1800s as a fertilizer. 



Ridgeway footpath near the Five Marys - SY7884


In SY7784 we crossed another minor road, although it is the same one that runs through West Chaldon and Chaldon Herring and leads onto the main Wareham Road.

The footpath passes the Lord's barrow, though you'd be forgiven for missing it or thinking it was just a lump in the field, not an erstwhile burial site of some importance.


Lord's Barrow - SY7784

Our next, and final road was named Gallows Hill so was presumably the site of some grisly executions, though I have not been able to find out anything more specific about it.


Gallows Hill and Owermoigne Barn - SY7784


We headed down the road towards Holworth, noticing the newly painted letterbox in front of the cottages here. 


Holworth Cottages and letterbox - SY7683

The sign for North Holworth was particularly attractive and worthy of a photo.


North Holworth - SY7683

Soon we were walking through familiar territory back to the car. What a fantastic walk. I think I'd managed to be sociable whilst completing my quest. Many thanks to Johnn for organising the walk.

Miles: 11 miles
Natural arches: 1
Gridsquares: 17





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